Tazeem Akhter
The three hour drive from Poonch is so full of breathtakingly beautiful views. But once one turns left from Bafliaz, inching towards Pir ki Gali on the famous Mughal road; the drive turns all sorts of adventurous. Flanked by rock-strewn hills on both sides, the road on one side clings to the rugged and steep cliffs and on the other edge; it stands at right angles to the ‘Nallah’ flowing with gushes deep below, venturing boldly over bridges built over tiny streams. Advancing ahead, one gets to see ‘Noori-Chamb’ plunging on the right hill making a ‘hanging valley’ – a geographical wonder. Chandimarh seems buzzing like Chandigarh, thanks to the Mughals for travelling this way, centuries back.The road turns narrower, bumpy and rough in patches. Mounting over the mountains, taking steep curves- the river gets lost somewhere at the foothills. Trees, countless in number, lay dead all along the way as if sacrificed for the Mughal road. Mountains too appear wounded; carved out roads spearing them incessantly. Peering out from the window seat, while looking down, I noticed the steepness that is more than enough to scare you but then the excitement defeats it. And every single turn provides you with a magnificently splendid view. Beautiful nature, one is left wondering! Then the roads become rocky; bulldozers becoming a common sight busy with clearing the roads; the landslides and avalanches notoriously damaging them every winter. Expanses of moraines dot the roads at intervals appearing below the snowbound areas, where once moved mighty glaciers. One doesn’t notice the altitude change so much, but the trail climbs gradually the whole way. You will notice that the trees have begun to disappear, giving way to meadows. The ‘Dharas’ dot the mountains every now and then. The nomads, on their way to higher ‘Dhoks’ soon become a familiar sight on the Mughal Road.
As the vehicles hit the highest point, after traversing the entire up-hill track, flat pastures greet the traveler. It is where Pir ki Gali stands at 3490 metres above Mean Sea Level (MSL) ; getting name from a local saint, Pir Baba Sheikh Karim and ‘Gali’ meaning ‘pass’. Afterwards, the journey is all downhill and finally smooth, broad Mughal road terminating at Shopian. We had our halt at the highest point of the Mughal road. The pastures and the meadows offer diverse shades of green. The splendor of snow-capped peaks forming the backdrop enchant everyone. The place is just too perfect for camping. Stepping out, the cool breeze sweeps across one’s face. Wings wanted me to fly like the falcon, soaring over hills to catch a ‘bird-eye’ view.
The clouds began to descend and the musical effect of patter of rain lashing was robbing the silence of the place, so away from the urban cacophony. Once the clouds flew away; walking around, feeling the mountains and listening to the sound of silence – there is little time for anything else than feasting our eyes. A picture perfect therapy for the tired eyes, true. I gawked around; a few horses lazily grazing near a tiny stream formed by a thawing glacier nearby. I looked towards the upper meadow; a little boy idly herding plenitude of sheep. Nobody seems to be in a hurry here. Not even herds of lamb while they munch on the soft grass. Even the drivers of vehicles scurrying away to Shopian slow down the pace. Such is the beauty!
Climbing over the ‘not so steep’ higher meadows was a test for anyone whose muscles have atrophied in city life. But the landscape is so captivating that one forgets the aching legs and the bursting lungs. Breathing becomes a little difficult; chilly winds sweeping across your face add more to the scene. Extend your hand and the ‘purest of the pure’ snow lies clinched in your fist. And the ice-cold water is more than enough to knock away your senses. Your feet start freezing even if wearing shoes. Carrying woolens become a must at this very height.
Ismail, the boy herding the flock of sheep stood still. An old ‘loi’ wrapping his feeble body, a monkey cap covering his head, a wooden stick in his hands and an emotionless face. His hands and feet frostbitten, melted my heart. I gave him my ‘Boro Plus’ cream, all I had! I gave him some snacks. Talked to him for sometime; trying to extract information about that difficult life. He told me about his family, his village and later invited me over to his ‘Dhara’. He pointed to a tiny dot on a far away meadow. There his ‘Dhara’ was. I had to decline that offer. Advising him to study, I bade him goodbye. And started clambering down. The last time I saw him, he was relishing on those snacks.
The Mughal road, no doubt, have brought Poonch on the tourist map. But the fact that it’s disturbing the nature, the nomads can’t really be brushed under the carpet. Many of the nomads themselves have opened shops to earn a living selling all stuff, ranging from plastic- packaged items to Cigarettes, Beedis and Tobacco and what not! And even Lipton Tea prepared on LPG. A must at that altitude. Still, thousands of people come only to adulterate it; snack-packs lay here and there. Beer bottles too mark a common sight. Plastic rags lay over all over the place. Setting a few ‘Use me’ dustbins will work wonders; the waste later being collected to be decomposed at some far away places.
With the carving out of Mughal road, the Ziarat of Peer Baba has gained its popularity. It boasts of a solar light panel as well. Namkeen chai in mitti ki pyaali with sattu is the specialty there. It was delectable. Moreover the area, now, being easily accessible, the wooden logs that lay strewn all along the Mughal road can be ferried and beautiful wooden huts can be made out of them at Peer ki Gali environs. They can then be lent out for nights’ stay to the tourists. This will not only boost the economy of the state but also give a more natural look. Furthermore, a few base camps for trekking be identified and routes be displayed for the easiness of trekkers. The locals can work as guides as well; earning hefty amounts for their livelihood.
It will take a long more time to further develop the area but nobody can deny that it’s magical. It’s magnetic. It draws you closer and closer. As we packed up, the beauty of the place wanted me to linger more. But I returned home with some amazing memories to cherish forever; vivid pics in the heart and mind that won’t fade or get lost ever. It is a place that can’t be expressed in words and that can’t be explained in pics; just plan a trip and experience it all yourself.
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