Dr Jasbir Singh Sarna
Jammu is familiary known as the treasure house of ancient monuments. There are many forts having great historical importance. On the north, Jammu engulfed by Pir Panjal range, on the south by Punjab, Chamba towards east and Punjab and Poonch on the west. Jammu is situated on the right bank of river Tawi. Jammu’s ancient name was ‘Madra Janapada’ (Rigvid, Maha Bharat, Raj Trangni) Jamawant (Sri Guru Partap Suraj Granth). Modern historiographer’s belief confirms name from Jambu Lochan. Alphabetically we should mention these forts as:
Akhnoor Fort: Akhnoor is situated 28 kms from south-west of Jammu, on the right bank of Chenab river. This fort along some forts of Reasi, were built by the Sikhs to control the province of Kashmir which then formed a part of Punjab empire which stretched from Khybes in west to Aksiachin (now a part of China controlled Kashmir) the east. According to ‘Gazetter of Kashmir & Ladakh’ “A brick fort is also seen on the east of the town. Its sides are 200 yards in length, walls are 3 feet thick. This fort was built ninety or one hundred years ago by Mian Tej Singh. Troops of the Central Govt. Occupied it but some of the descendants of Tej Singh live in the town…. .. The town is built on a terrace above the river they speak only Punjabi.”
The fort is situated near the Jiapota (Tree after which the Jiapota temple is named), where Maharaja Ranjit Singh performed Raj Tilak ceremony to 21 years old Raja Gulab Singh. Jiapota Ghat is revered by the Hindus. Gurdwara Tapo Asthan Sant Baba Sunder Singh of Ali Bag (Mirpur) was constructed by the Jammu Sikh Sangat. This fort is being preserved by the Govt as a Dogra Heritage and is under renovation by Archeological Survey of India. Currently some parts of this fort are used as Revenue Office and a police station.
Bahu Fort: This fort is 5 kms from Jammu city, situated on a hillock on the left bank of river Tawi. It is one of the ancient forts among forts of Jammu. It is assumed that the fort was constructed about 3,000 years ago by Raja Bahu Lochan. The renovation was done during Sikh rule by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820. Dogra rulers did some beautification lateron. Materials used in its construction are of sandstones, stones etc. Inside the fort is a religious temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Kali, the presiding deity of Jammu. Locally temple is familiar with the name ‘Bave Wali Mata’. Earlier the fort was also refurbished by Autar Dev in 1585. The fort is about 1000 feet located at an elevation, opposite the old town of Jammu. The fort has eight octagonal turrets connected with thick walls. The towers have cnclosures to house guards. The main entry is fit to allow passage of elephants into the fort. On the left entry into the fort is a water tank, which is 6.1×61 meters in size and a water depth of 4.6 meters. A pyramidal structure is on the right flank used as ammunition store. An underground chamber is used as a prison. This Chamber has a secret exist to escape from the fort in case of any emergencies. The first floor is lavishly built with arches and decorated with floral designs like a Baradari or a palace.
Bhimgarh or Reasi Fort: Reasi is situated on the bank of river Chenab. Reasi’s ancient name was ‘Resial’. Reasi is 64 kms from Jammu and 27 kms from Katra. In this region, Bhimgarh, Zorawar Singh Haveli and Salal Forts are present.
Initially, the fort was of clay but lateron refurbished with stone etc. Raja Bhim Dev established Bhimgarh state during 8th century. If remained an independent principality till 1822, when Khalsa Sarkar Lahore consolidated the small states. The fort is on a hillock about 150 meters high. This fort is used by the royal families as a shelter place during the time of war. In this fort, Kanwar Naunihal Singh, grandson of Maharaja Ranjit Singh stayed for a couple of weeks. Since 1989, the fort is in the charge of Department of Archeology, J&K Govt. The fort is got damaged several times due to its age and natural violence. This fort adds glorification to the city of Reasi.
Zorawar Singh Haveli is another fort of Reasi city. During the time of S. Dewan Singh in 1810 A.D, Jammu witnessed a wave of violence. Maharaja Ranjit Singh deproted his generals to curb the rebellion and Gen. Zorawar Singh Rajput was deputed as administrator of this region. Zorawar Singh was lived in fort – Haveli. Salal fort is also in region. These small forts are in poor conditions and unattended.
Dhanidhar Fort: Rajouri is 154 kms from Jammu. The earliest name of Rajouri was Rajapura, which figures in Mahabharat classic. The seventh century Chinese traveller also mentioned its name. (A history of India). In Reasi, there are prominent ancient forts like Dhanidhar, Mangla Devi, Darhal and Sunderbani fort.
Dhanidhar fort is 2 kms from Rajouri. Certainly it is believed that Emperor Jahangir erected this fort some 400 years ago. Dhanidhar signifies in Punjabi as highest elevation of land portion. The Dhanidhar village is still in its close proximity. (Gazetter of Kashmir & Ladakh). In 1819, Maharaja Ranjit Singh during his Kashmir campaign attached this fort and appointed Mirza Reheem Ullah Khan as Raja of Rajouri in place of Raja Agar Khan. Reheem remained governing Rajouri Principality upto 1846 under the Control of Khalsa Darbar Lahore. Later, Raja Gulab Singh appointed Mian Hathu Governor from 1846-1856 A.D. Mian Hathu refurbished Dhanidhar fort with stones, lime and other materials. The fort was completed in 1855 A.D. From this fort whole valley of Rajouri could be viewed. During the Dogra regime, all the revenue collected from the farmers in the shape of grains was dumped in this fort.
Naushera or Mangla Devi Fort: Naushera is 124 kms from Jammu. The fort is situated 18 kms away from Naushera. This fort is very secured and difficult to access due to strong massive fortification. The fort is on the summit of a rocky hill. Ruins of a number of similar fort like structures exist on either side of the rivulet flowing past Naushera. These ancient structures had their own rulers and each one had to depend against this neighbours. During the regims of Raja Ranjit Dev, Mian Rattan Dev had conducted the siege of fort and brought it under his possession. History says that Sardar Sahib of Gujarat and S. Mohan Singh Shaker Chakya also attacked the fort. Now-a-days this fort contains a treasury building a huge damaged tank and a modern temple of Mata Mangla Devi.
Darhal Fort: Located 12 kms from Naushera is a fort of Rajouri dominating the Lam and Darhal valleys. Firmly constructed on a massive rock, with steep sides it is in acessible from all the sides. The fort is 150 yards in length and 20-35 yards in width. This fort was constructed by a general of Maharaja Ranjit Singh and was a stronghold of this forces till 1886. Lateron, forces of Maharaja Gulab Singh occupied it.
In 1947, the Muslims wanted to occupy this fort but it was quickly occupied by the local Sikhs and Hindus under the leadership of Subedar Ranjit Singh. In October 1947 Pakistan forces launched many attacks to capture the fort but they were firmly repulsed by the staunch resistance under the command of Subedar Ranjit Singh. Lateron, Ranjit Singh achieved martyrdom in one of the skirmishes.
Chingus Fort: The fort is situated on the Mughal road near to Noori-Chamb. According to ‘Gazetter of Kashmir and Ladakh’, it is the same place where emperior Jahangir died and Noor-Jehan (wife) got his entrails interred. His dead body, less entrails was taken to Lahore without it being disclosed that he was dead.” The Mughal entourage while passing from Rajouri to Srinagar halted at convenient places. Enroute are a number of mini forts and inns. The two important places associated with them are Chingus and Noori-Chamb. The fort is in a displapidated condition.
Jasrota Fort: This is fort is also known as Billawar fort. Billawar is 80 kms from Jammu and 25 kms from Kathua. Billawar was earlier known as ‘Walapurt’ (Rajtaragni). Billawar (Balaur) was founded by Raja Bhopat Pal (1598-1614). Billawar town is situated on the bank of Naaz and Bhinni nallahas. (Encyclopaedia of Tourism Resource in India). The Kingdom of Jasrota was founded by Raja Jasdev of Jammu in 1019 A.D. According to one source, they are Subclan Rajputs, who migrated from Rajasthan at the time of Emperior Aurangzeb.
The fort of Jasrota was erected by the kings of Jasrota. Originally the fort had seven gates but only four gates mark their existence. The fort is stretched along 700 kanals of land. The fort houses different palaces, ponds, ancient temples etc. According to the author of ‘The Punjab Hill States’. “Owing to the fertility of the track being so close to the plains, the Kingdom of Jasrota under, its native rulers was once a powerful state which equated in importance with Jammu down to the time of its extinction in 1834.”
There are a few forts namely Lakhanpur Fort, Ramkot fort, Chanchla Mata Fort, Basoli Fort, Jandi Fort Hiranagar and Mehtab Garh Fort, Lakhanpur. These forts due to frequent raids and ravages, now standing in a diplapidated conditions.
Samab Fort: Samba is 40 kms from Jammu city. These forts according to one source mere erected during 13 – 14th century. Samba town was named after the Sumb and Raja Maldev, representing Sumb deity. This ancient fort was build by Raja of Mandi, Naga Raja Goursen (1679-1684). In 1808-12 Maharaja Ranjit Singh conquered Jasrota and brought Samba under Sikh rule and deputed Raja Suchit Singh as its ruler. The Samba fort was built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1822 on the remains of old fort. Some work was carried by Raja Suchit Singh in 1830 A.D. There are three forts in Samba namely Mohargarh Fort, Dhirgarh Fort and Bebnergarh Fort. This fort is seven kms away on Dhar road from National Highway. These forts are on a plateau covered by lushgreen fields, fourth fort namely Malkot is in ruins. In these forts, there was a Govt. school functioning, where reputed Gulzari Lal Nanda and S. L. Sehgal continued their studies. The gates of Mohargarh fort are still intact aganist the earlier raids. Red sand, stones etc are utilized in its construction. The walls of these forts are two kms in length and 2-4 metres in breadth. Now-a-days noticeable number of families (about 140)of Gujjars, Rajputs, Thakurs etc reside in them. The face architect of these forts are an amalgam of Hindu-Muslim-Sikhs architecture. A large water reservoir is the main source of water for the residing families. The Samba fort is declared an ancient monument under the Ancient Monument Preservation Act 1920. The Govt undertook conservation and restoration work in March, 2010.
Inspite of above mentioned forts, there are many more forts like Krimchi fort, Jagnoo fort, Badhigarh fort Bajlata (Udhampur), Poonch fort etc. These forts are in dilapidated condition but sincere efforts should be made at the earliest for the preservation.
These forts are assets of glorification and precious heritage of our state. These living monuments are the grand examples of the legacy of the art and must be preserved for the coming generations to peep into their rich past and glorious heritage.
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