Col. Satish Singh Lalotra
‘The science of fossil shells is the first step towards the study of the earth-Giovanni Battitsa Brocchi.
The month of October generally signifying ‘fall of the year’ in northern hemisphere ushers in a heightened sense of change of seasons, a time of colourful foliage ,crisp air ,the first frost etc. It’s many people’s favourite season . The month also holds a profound importance signifying its close association with the evolution of science of fossils, rocks and minerals. ‘The international fossil week’ from 16th October to 21st October every year is a pointer towards this end. As the world comes together to celebrate the beauty of our planet’s ancient history, a truly exceptional story of discovery and adventure emerges from the high altitude wilderness of Ladakh, Burtse to be precise. Now where is this place Burtse? It is the same place which is known by the name ‘Burtsa’ a historical halting place on the caravan route at the southern end of the ‘Depsang plains where the Chinese army marked its presence at a crucial Y-Junction near the Burtse patrol camp in Ladakh. Dr Ritesh Arya, a renowned geologist with over 35 years of experience in the Himalayas has unearthed a remarkable secret hidden at 18000 feet above the MSL in the eastern Himalayas. He has the singular credit to himself of finding a coral reef fossil standing tall at an altitude where temperature can plummet to as low as minus 35 degrees Celsius during winters. The ‘Coral reefs’ ,which we often so associate in places like Maldives, Mauritius, and even in the bay of Bengal may be the last thing one expects to find in the Himalayan region and that too at such a forbidding height. These coral reef fossils, which include intricate structures of coral colonies, provide a glimpse into an ancient underwater world. They serve as a vivid testament to the incredible bio-diversity that once thrived in this high altitude realm. This finding is not only a remarkable geological marvel but also an astounding opportunity to delve into the earth’s past.
Burtse ,a remote and inaccessible region in Ladakh where the opposing forces of India and china are locked into a deadly embrace since the Galwan clash of May -june 2020 along the LAC, offers a rare glimpse into the earth’s geological history ,its dramatic folds and faults shaped by the colossal tectonic forces at play during the formation of the Himalayas . They tell the tale of a time when the Indian plate collided with the Eurasian plate. This collision birthed the mighty Himalayan range and sealed the fate of the so called ‘Tethys Ocean’ which was separating ‘Gondwana land’ (comprising of India, Australia, South America, Antarctica, and Africa) from ‘Laurasia’comprising of Asia and Europe. Burtse is also a geological treasure chest brimming with thousands of fossilized remains of ‘Gastropods,bivalves, foraminifera, and echinoderms that have been unearthed from its hills ,offering invaluable insights into the region’s ancient past. These fossils open up new vistas of compelling evidence of a time when ‘Burtse ‘was submerged in a marine environment and a coastal beach along the ‘TETHYS OCEAN’; something we have akin to our own beaches all along our 7500 kms of maritime boundary. The geology indicates low -energy conditions painting a vivid picture of the past at Burtse. In fact the geological history of Burtse is a parallel to the beaches of Rameshwaram or Andaman Nicobar today. The term ‘Tethys Himalayas’ was introduced for the first time in 1935 for the fossiliferous occurrence in this part of the Himalayas that extends even up to the northern part of Garhwal mountains from Ladakh mountains.
By putting Burtse on the world geological map by his world famous discovery, DrArya has inadvertently catapulted this obscure place into a twin historical importance, that of discovery of coral reefs at the highest altitude in the world and secondly its inherent importance as a halting place on the old caravan route of world famous ‘Silk trading route’. The world traders from all over the globe ,and more so from the central Asia to India and further travelling to Afghanistan and Iran have their footprints on this famous route though obliterated now with the time and tide of events. The world famous writer and an expert on Asian affairs ‘Peter Hopkirk’ in his seminal work -The Great Game-On his majesty’s secret service in high Asia’ has mentioned this place Burtse many times when secret missions were often led by British army officers as part of their reconnaissance of the high mountain passes to secure the northern frontiers of India from a Czarist Russia in the mid and early 19th century.
The very name ‘Burtse’ is derived from a small medicinal herb that thrives in this unique environment. Burtse’s unique blend of geological wonders and historical narratives places it firmly on the world map of ‘Geo-heritage’ destination of immense importance. The construction of a small museum in this remote region will further allow the public to access and appreciate these significant specimens and understand the geological as well as cultural heritage of Burtse. Dr Arya, the distinguished geologist has given a true meaning to World Fossil Day by his discovery. We celebrate not only the geological marvels of Burtse but also the spirit of exploration and discovery as personified by Dr Arya. This remarkable discovery at such a forbidding altitude challenges human spirit, forbearance and fortitude that deserves global spotlight. Incidentally ‘Sumna’ and Rimkhim in chamoliGarhwal also are treasure troves of such fossils that have lend credence to the fact that this Tethys ocean had a wide spread from pre-historic times spanning our entire northern boundary from Jammu and Kashmir till Sikkim and Bhutan. Dr Arya’s unwavering passion for exploration and commitment to unraveling such hidden geological wonders continue to advance our understanding of earth’s geological past. As the founder of ‘Tethys fossil museum’ in Himachal Pradesh he has trail blazed an issue that has few parallels in our sub -continent. The vast range of Himalayas never ceases to surprise even the most disinterested of a traveller which I found myself way back in the early 1990s, when as part of an LRP (Long range patrol) I happen to come across this fossil treasure in the Garhwal mountains. It seems that a streak of footloose character with throwing caution to the winds can often end up as an act of serendipity, since such discoveries do not fall under the realm of an ordinary discovery. It takes that extra mile to see that the world jerks up to note you and your achievements that could be an envy of a normal mortal.
(The writer is a retired army officer)
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