Sunny Dua
The incessant rains took with it another major and important portion of Gol Ghar located in North-Eastern side of the historic Mubarak Mandi complex, restoration work on which was going on since the time this 120 Kanals complex was declared as state protected monument within the meaning of ‘J&K ancient monument preservation Act Samvat 1977’ way back in 2005. The portion that caved in this week like a pack of cards was a huge four storied inner wall that was part of a corridor and had beautifully built-in 6 arches to add to the beauty and give strength to the structure.
This entire structure of Gol Ghar, built by Maharaja Ranbir Singh over the foundations laid down by Maharaja Gulab Singh, comprises of two rows of huge arch walls which were connected to form a passage that lead to actual Gol Ghar which was a four-stories structure again built in a circular form and having a dome on its top. The dome though is intact another round structure having staircase couldn’t bear the brunt of weather vagaries and had collapsed long ago.
However, arched walls that surrounded a compound were kept intact with the support of some brick columns erected to save the structure from falling apart. These preservation measures proved futile and the wall caved in in these rains. Way back in 2006 also, merely a year after the structure was declared as ‘protected’, a major portion of same Gol Ghar had fallen apart due to incessant rains and slid on the circular road near Peer-Kho cave area. One of the main outer walls of the Gol Ghar facing river Tawi had already collapsed and another one exactly parallel to this having seven arches is also on the verge of collapse.
Built ‘Brick by Brick’ it’s falling apart ‘Piece by Piece’
In totality 12 arches of left wall and one out of seven on the front wall have been turned into rubble. These fallen arches that formed part of complete Gol Ghar resembled ‘Roman Colosseum’ but cease to exist now. This week rained created havoc in Gol Ghar and brought down entire wall which was part of a long corridor that extended right up to river Tawi side. This entire place was having beautiful aesthetics but time has taken its toll on the structure and its almost finished now. The facade overlooking river Tawi too was known for its aesthetics where some Jharokhas were built to spend time in winters or peak summers have all vanished.
With this recent damage also comes down the parapets which were decorated with ornamental grills. The outer view of this palatial building was quite magnificent and was decorated with bricks, pebbles, woodworks and most importantly arches that added to its beauty as well as provided ample lighting. Historians, architects and civil engineers believe that carving out the so-called circular road right through the slope of this hillock that was part of the foundation of this huge palace was the first blunder which ultimately weakened the entire structure and it started falling apart piece by piece.
Prior to declaring Mubarak Mandi Heritage Complex as state protected monument, about forty government offices were functional from the small and large rooms of this mega structure which were moved out to begin protection work. Since the work got delayed and was started from wrong sides (instead of crumbling ones to the already intact structures), this inordinate delay joined by weather vagaries caused huge damages to various buildings known for their intricately designed works named after erstwhile Kings and Queens.
Now that entire rubble of fallen wall has spread in the compound, it has blocked the way to Golo Ghar as well. Beautiful bricks, pieces of parapet and fallen arches in the form of rubble have all occupied major portion of compound of Gole Ghar where a water reservoir is also located. An old image of Gol Ghar reveals that there were three round structures in this particular complex and all were joined together. While one building had a dome on its top, the remaining two had beautiful terraces with ornamental parapet walls from where rulers used to enjoy the splendid view of river Tawi.
This particular place, because of its ideal location, was an apt place for soaking in winter Sun or experiencing cool breeze during peak winters. Reports reveal that The Mubarak Mandi Complex was also marred by multiple fire incidents, with first such incident recorded way back in 1898 AD that damaged Governor’s office and foreign office as well as green Darbar hall. Historians reveal that this complex and particularly, Gol Ghar had suffered due to almost twenty fire incidents that had not only destroyed the government records but also damaged wood works, carvings, ceiling panels, wooden battens and other materials that was housed in various parts of this entire complex.
Other than Gol Ghar, a huge entrance having several beautifully designed columns, canopies, top floors and many more such walls had already caved in in this complex which had three entrances, one from Chowk Chabutra side another from Pakki Dhakki area and last one from Panjtirthi side where a Deodi also existed but now stands razed to ground. Though the work on restoration of facades of various complexes around the main courtyard is going on at full pace yet Jammu and Kashmir has lost a major portion of Mubarak Mandi which can never be restored or even reconstructed like a “dead horse”.
These palatial buildings were constructed by erstwhile Maharaja Gulab Singh where some secret chambers at led to the river during emergency. Later, Maharaja Ranbir Singh erected magnificent structures on the foundation laid down by Maharaja Gulab Singh on the third out of four strata which were known as Gole Ghar owning to its shape and style. Historians say Mubarak Mandi comprising of about 24 palatial buildings were erected on four layers and the foundation of these palaces were laid by Raja Gaje Singh the son of Raja Hari Dev.
The name Darbargarh was given to the complex during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Dev and the layout of the outer court was done during the reign of Raja Dhruv Dev. Gol Ghar had four storeys overlooking river Tawi. It was also gutted down in the mid-1980s as a result of an earthquake wherein roofs and floors of the building had collapsed, leaving the building in ruins.
Gole Ghar was an important structure in the palace complex, with both historical and architectural significance. Its construction began under Maharaja Dhruv Dev (1703-1725) and was later expanded by Maharaja Gulab Singh. Maharaja Ranbir Singh completed the building, and it is believed that he lived and died there. Gole Ghar can be accessed from the courtyard between Maharaja Pratap Mahal ruins and Toten wali Deodi.
The architectural style of Gole Ghar combines Western elements, like Victorian and Gothic influences, with regional designs. It is a five-story building with a basement on the eastern side. The building is mostly circular, which explains its name, and its standout features are various types of arches, such as semi-circular, cusped, and horse-shoe arches. The palace is also known for its decorative cornices, and its construction used materials like bricks, stone, and wood.
Mubarak Mandi, the larger palace complex, has experienced several collapses over the years. In 2016, part of the complex was damaged due to heavy rains, and landslides caused more damage in 2010. Maharaja Gulab Singh had built more palaces on the foundations laid by his predecessors, adding secret chambers for emergencies. Maharaja Ranbir Singh further expanded these structures, which eventually came to be known as Gole Ghar.
The old palaces had four courtyards, or “Ahatas,” where buildings were erected around open spaces. The largest courtyard, Darbargarh, was the oldest and contained the royal offices. Several gates provided access to this courtyard. Gole Ghar’s design included underground cells that connected to the river, hidden by narrow underground passages known only to royalty. The uppermost floor featured arched entrances facing the river, and the building also had a natural spring with a covered reservoir.
Unfortunately, a fire gutted part of the structure, and no efforts have been made to preserve it, leaving it vulnerable to decay. The palace once featured intricate floral designs and fluted columns, but much of this has been lost over time. Another notable structure in the complex is Rani Charhak’s palace, built for one of the most powerful queens during the reign of Maharaja Pratap Singh. This four-story building was known for its mosaic work and floral designs, but it has deteriorated due to neglect and natural wear.
Maharaja Pratap Singh, in his old age, had a lift installed in the palace, a rare feature at the time. Today a provision of Rs 40 crore for the current financial year, out of a total of Rs 140 crore stands earmarked for the project which underscores the government’s commitment to the restoration. However, when the decision to transition funding from the languishing projects scheme to the Capex Budget, coupled with the establishment of a dedicated engineering wing, marks a pivotal moment in the efforts for restoration, some important portions of this complex have started crumbling which remind me of a couplet by Jamal Ehsani that goes like ….
(At what point did it occur to you to part ways?
That now the days were going to be better.)
(The writer is senior journalist & heritage conservationist)
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