Dr Javaid Rahi
A couple of days ago, in a significant move the Government of Jammu and Kashmir officially launched the iconic Gojri ethnic topi , headwear of Gujjar women folk , on the popular e-commerce platform Meesho. This landmark initiative of District Administration Poonch , organised by the Department of Handicrafts and Handloom whereby the Deputy Commissioner Poonch Vikas Kundal launched the Lachko-Gojri Cap of women on Meesho, which will definitely open new economic avenues for local artisans and showcase the region’s rich cultural heritage at national and international level.
The Gojri topi, a distinct symbol of the Gujjar community’s cultural identity, holds deep-rooted significance. Traditionally worn by the Gujjar-Bakerwal female of all age , this head-wear not only serves as a sign of pride but also exemplifies the community’s historical connection with the land .
Hand-embroidered Gojri Topi , also called Lachka, is a rounded, brimless headwear with a flat top, worn by Gujjar-Bakkarwal women for centuries. In various regions of the UT, it is known by different names: in Kashmir, it is called Lachko, while in Jammu, it is referred to as the Bakerwali Topi or Gujari Topi. The Kanhari Bakerwali Topi slightly differs in size and shape, often extending over the shoulders and sometimes down to the lower back.The Lachko has been an integral part of the everyday attire of Gujjar women, serving as a visible marker of their caste and cultural identity.
The origins of the Lachka are difficult to trace precisely, but it is widely believed to have been adopted in the past three to four centuries, particularly by migratory Gujjar-Bakkarwal women who have been living in hilly and cold regions. Today, it is predominantly worn by older women, although its cultural relevance remains revelant for all the generations. Often, the cap is given as a gift to non Gujjar Women , signifying respect and honour. In this sense, it holds a status comparable to the traditional turban worn by Gujjar men, known as the Lungi/ Pagh.
The Art of Lachka
For centuries, the Gujjar-Bakerwal women of Jammu and Kashmir have practiced a unique form of handicraft, skillfully creating traditional crafts including the most popular headwear known as Lachko. With just a piece of cloth, coloured threads, and a needle, these women transform everyday materials into intricate, symbolic pieces of wearable art. Different regions in Jammu and Kashmir, as well as in neighbouring states, produce various styles of Gujjar caps. These hand-woven caps are primarily crafted in districts like Poonch, Rajouri, Doda, Reasi, Bandipora, Baramulla, Anantnag, Ganderbal and others. Each district has its own unique style, embroidery patterns, and preferred colour schemes. The caps are the product of painstaking labour and artistic skill, reflecting the cultural diversity within the Gujjar community.
The creation starts with a basic piece of cotton cloth as per the size of a head. To begin, the woman cuts the cloth into the shape of a cap, a careful process that requires precision and a deep understanding of proportions.
Once the base is ready, the true artistry begins. Using coloured threads, the woman starts weaving patterns directly onto the cloth. These designs are often geometric, floral, or symbolic motifs that reflect the rich visual traditions of the Gujjar-Bakerwal culture. The colours used are usually vibrant, with reds, blues, greens, blacks, and yellows dominating the threads used in the weaving. The patterns are developed slowly, stitch by stitch with needle, with each thread interwoven to form a cohesive and harmonious design.
The Lachko is intricately designed in cotton, silk, and ruffled thread embellished with running stitch embroidery covering the layers of cloth. The threads for embroidery are typically sourced from local markets, and the designs feature motifs such as human figures, birds, flowers, animals, and geometric shapes.
Creating a Lachka is no small task. It takes between one to two days of focused work to complete one. The time and effort involved in crafting a single piece speak volumes about the dedication and skill of the women who produce them. Despite the long hours, the women embrace this craft, viewing it not only as a way to create something functional but also as a form of artistic expression.
Craft and Tradition
What makes the Lachko truly special is that it is a craft exclusively practiced by women. In Gujjar-Bakerwal society, this particular form of craftsmanship is closely linked to women’s identity, creativity, and role in preserving the tribe’s traditions. While men are primarily engaged in pastoral activities such as herding livestock, women contribute to their community through these cultural and artistic practices. For women, the making of the Lachko is more than a technical process. It is a rite of passage that is learned from older generations and passed down to younger ones. Young girls learn the techniques from their mothers, grandmothers, or aunts, ensuring the survival of the tradition in future generations.
Moreover, the craft serves as a source of social bonding for the women in the community. The process of making Lachko is routine work . Sometimes the community women gather together to work on their caps, exchange stories, and support one another.
Usage of Lachko
The Lachka is typically worn by Gujjar-Bakkarwal women in their daily lives, serving as an emblem of identity and tradition. On special occasions, such as religious ceremonies or family gatherings, a new Lachka is donned. Additionally, when a respected non-Gujjar woman visits Gujjar areas, the community often gifts her a Lachka as a gesture of honour and respect.
A traditional female Gujjar attire generally consists of a Kurti or Jubo (shirt), paired with a matching Shalwar and Chaddar or Chipri. The Lachka complements this attire, enhancing the overall cultural aesthetic.
Economy of Lachko
For artisans, this move represents an opportunity to secure a steady income stream, which has often been uncertain due to the limited community-orientated market exposure for their products. With a platform like Meesho, local artisans can compete at a national level, ensuring that their work is valued and recognised beyond the region.
By making the Gojri topi available on Meesho, the Department of Handicrafts and Handloom aims to address the growing need for market access and provide local artisans with a platform to reach a broader customer base. This initiative is not just a commercial endeavour but a vital cultural project that ensures the survival and flourishing of traditional craftsmanship in an increasingly globalised world.
The Lachka as a Dowry Item
In Gujjar tradition, a special Lachka is often crafted for a bride as part of her dowry, symbolising the passing down of cultural heritage to the next generation. This beautifully embroidered cap represents not only the aesthetic values of the community but also the continuity of tradition and identity.
Conclusion
The Lachka, though a simple piece of headwear, holds immense cultural, artistic, and social significance for the Gujjar-Bakerwal women of Jammu and Kashmir. The craft, passed down through generations, represents the creativity, resilience, and identity of the women who create it. As they continue to pass down this craft, the Lachko remains not just a symbol of cultural pride but also a beacon of the timeless bond between women and the art they create.
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