Rajinder Chand Anthal
Sudhmahadev is a wonderful valley in the foot hills of Dhar Shivgarh at a distance of 22 Kms from tehsil Headquarter Chenani. Sudhmahadev enjoys the status of ancient pilgrimage destination connected with the glories of Lord Shiva. Sacred Devika rivulet originates from a religious place about 2 Kms away from Goukaran. On entering the land of Lord Shiva at Sudhmahadev, we find Holy vibrations in ourselves which can only be felt at heart but can not be described by any means.
We find mention of Sudhmahadev in Hindu religious books. Legends say that Lord Shiva married Goddess PARVATI at Mantalai which is believed to be the capital of Great Kingdom of Raja Himachal. We find many things associated with the marriage of Lord Shiva at Mantalai. There has been a significant contribution of kings of erstwhile Chenani state for the construction and development of Lord Shiva temple Sudhmahadev and all adjoining temple complexes at Gouri Kund, Mantalai, Goukaran, Haridwar, Benisang and Mandir Dushala etc. These sky high temples were constructed by the Kings of Chenani and thousands kanals land was donated for their maintenance. During the regime of Chenani kings, the Sudhmahadev Yatra was connected with almost all the above mentioned temples on foot. But it is sorry state of affairs that even after 65 years of independence we could not connect all these religious places by road link. So the ancient Yatra route has been violated by the present short cut route to visit Sudhmahadev and Mantalai only. The other most important Shiva temples of Ancient Yatra remain unknown to the pilgrims.
Sudhmahadev Mela is grand religious event spreading over a period of 3 days. This year the mela will start from Jun 12. The devotees of Lord Shiva and general public from entire Jammu province will start reaching on the day of Mela from different destinations. The grand ancient Lord Shiva temple of Sudhmahadev has a history of events to tell. The temple complex has remained the seat of power of Chandravanshi Rajas of Chenani as it was their summer headquarters. The excellent wooden Haveli adjoining the temple was the private residence of Kings and Queens. Now the Haveli is being utilized for accommodating the pilgrims during Mela days. The temple complex had a secret underground store house to keep temple wealth and other valuables of the royal family including some arms and ammunitions also. The fact was known only to the King and Head priest of Sudhmahadev temple. So the temple had both religious and strategic importance during the ancient time. The last ruler of Chenani Raja Rama Chand shifted the royal belongings to Chenani and the Haveli was handed over to the temple for public use.
On the 1st day of the Mela the pilgrims reach GouriKund in the evening and offer prayer in the temple of Goddess Parvati and take bath in the Holy tank called GouriKund. It is believed that Goddess Parvati worshipped at this place inside a small cave for thousands of years to get married to Lord Shiva. Near by the cave flows a cold water stream. The pilgrims enjoy the natural beauty and feel the religious importance of this place. After Gouri Kund the pilgrims travel ahead to Sudhmahadev which is about 2 Kms away. They assemble in large numbers at Sudhmahadev in the different accommodations available in temple complex and private houses. The important temples of this Yatra are under the management of Dharmarth Trust. The bazaars of Sudhmahadev are well decorated and people sit on the roof tops and sing Dogri Folk songs through out the night. There is great rush in the streets of Sudhmahadev and this small town remain alive during all days and Mela Nights. The security related arrangements of the Government are praise worthy where as nothing has been done on permanent basis for accommodation of nearly 50,000 yatris. There are no shelter sheds, no toilets and no separate bathrooms for ladies. The majority of the yatris have to pass the night in the open at the mercy of God.
On the 2nd day of the Mela the people wake up early in the morning and march towards a sacred waterfall called “NADA” for holy bath. This is the special occasion to have bath at this place on “Purnima” for Spiritual blessing from God. The pilgrims have to walk over a kaccha path of about 2 Kms length by climbing tough terrain to reach this most sacred place. On way while passing through Goukaran they take First bath there. No developmental activity is seen on this bridle path but the high spirit of yatris overcomes the on way difficulties. Finally, the sea of pilgrims reaches Sudhmahadev for Darshan and worship of Lord Shiva.
In the Sudhmahadev temple complex the continuously burning “Dhuni” from thousands of years remain the main attraction for the pilgrims, where logs of wood are burnt daily but no ash is taken out. It is indeed a miracle. The temple of Guru Gorakhnath is yet another place of worship in the same complex. There is a Trident of Lord Shiva and the Idol of Bhairo Nath on black stone and Shiv Rudri the priceless Jewel are the things to be seen and worshipped there. There after the Pilgrims proceed towards Papnashani Spring. It is said that all worldly sins disappear after a bath in this cold water spring. There is one another temple adjacent to main bus stand Sudhmahadev. This temple of Goddess “Mall Devi” is believed to have been constructed by Raja Gajender Chand of Chenani on the pattern of Sukrala Mata Temple.
Mantalai is the final destination of Yatra. The pilgrims in large number take holy bath in the holy water tank and after prayer in Goddess Parvati temple at Mantalai. It is said that the present large size water tank was Hawan Kund during the marriage of Lord Shiva. There are no arrangements for stay of Pilgrims in large number at Mantalai except the Aparna Ashram of Late Swami Dhanendra Brahmachari which has almost turned into ruins. The apple gardens, the Airport, the swimming pools, the hotels,hostels, goushalas, and Yoga research centre with sky high buildings presents deserted look without proper care and maintenance.
On the last day of the Mela, a wrestling match is held at Sudhmahadev which is another interesting event. So the Sudhmahadev Mela concludes on 3rd day with great joy of religious attainments. For the people having faith in Lord Shiva it is most spiritual occasion to get blessing from the God for prosperity and welfare of the mankind.
(The author is a former ZEO Chenani)
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