Rajinder Singh Rana
Pir Panjal ranges of Himalaya are believed to have formerly been the home of holy saints and spiritual people who wandered the region’s serene hills and lush green forests on a path of self-realization, mediation and compassion. It is the place where some seers and saints have either attained immortality or transformed into regional deities and are venerated by the local populace.
Located in Thuroo village of Reasi, Devasthan of Bua Jamaas Kuldevi is a prime destination for devotees and locals alike, drawing large crowds for darshan and fulfilling wishes. The location is ideal, nestled among the breathtakingly lofty Pir Panjal belts and the hilltop of Thuroo Kote. This sacred site seems more enchanting and beautiful during snow falls, and pilgrims gather there to soak in the splendour.
After visiting Kuldevi’s sacred place, we are showered with blessings in the form of spiritual energy and feel so calm and at peace that one is reluctant to return home.
Sansar Chand Thakur, Pujari of Kuldevi tells that at the time when Thakurs from the Kashmir areas moved to Thuroo Kote, a small Kashmiri Pandit girl was raised by one of the Thakurs’ families. The child had a strong belief in God and would regularly set aside time for worship. Although her name was “Jamaas,” but Thakur family used to affectionately call her as “Bua”. The family asked Jamaas for marriage when she grew older, but she instantly declined, disappeared inside the rock at Thuroo Kote and gained immortality. Following her transformation into a local divinity, she has been revered as Thakur biradari’s “Kuldevi” and popularly known as Bua Jamaas.
The Bua Jamaas is Kuldevi of local Dhandi Thakur biradari of Thuroo village since hundreds of years and many generations of biradari have worshipped the holy goddess at Thuroo Kote.
The biradari members have been following a ritual since creation of this local deity. Male goat sacrifices are performed at Devasthan in honour of the arrival of a new bride or boy child into the clan or Gotra. The male members of biradari also sit together after bhog of holy deity and eat in one traditional antique Thali locally called as Kinj. In order to please the holy goddess, religious events such as local Kud dances are also performed there.
On right side of Bua Jamaas in plain ground lies the hallowed pindi of Baba Nar Singh and “Thath” in ancient reliquaries and ruins, where bhog is also offered following Bua Jamaas’s bhog. The sacred Devasthan of Bua Jamaas Kuldevi is to be stretched across 40 Kanals of land in Thuroo Village, according to revenue record and is recorded in the name of Jamaas in Khasra No-801 min.
There is a naturally occurring ancient pond in Kote Gali near Devasthan that was probably constructed by ancestors of Thakurs and never dries up throughout the course of the year. In Pond were also erected historical carved stones and stone sculptures bearing a variety of folktales. Unfortunately, some of the stone sculptures have been damaged or relocated due to the ignorance of the people. This historic pond had once another story connected with Devasthan of Bua Jamaas.
Every year annual yatra or pilgrimage is also undertaken at holy Devasthan of Bua Jamaas in the months of June/July in which people from various other places visit there enchanting bhajan and other religious songs. Bhandara is also organised in which langers are established for the pilgrims.
A trust has also been established in the name of Bua Jamaas Devasthan whose chairman is Pujari or Pran (Sansar Chand Thakur) to oversee the management and other assignments related to the Holy shrine. The other members of Trust are Narian Singh, Karnail Singh, Baldev Singh and Sanjay Kumar. A local committee has also been constituted for cleanliness, sanitation and other works during yatra and holy rituals.
Thuroo Kote is a place where human settlement first started very earlier. The locals there used to coexist to defend the area against attacks by other tribes that would typically wander into the jungle in search of cultivable land. The native Thakurs of Thuroo Kote used to go to low-lying areas during the day for cultivation of their fields and return to Thuroo Kote at night.
There used to be a thick forest as well in the past, but over time, the locals identified some spots from time to time, cleared the forest to make way for farming, and the area became arable. Following Thakurs, Gujjar families and members of the other communities made Thuroo Kote and other localities of village their home. From Kote Gali one trek route leads to Gajnawali, a popular Ziarat where pilgrims throng throughout the year. Another Devasthan Bharat Kikas and pindi of Madran (Jogan) are also located near Maal Top and Bhein Devta is worshipped on Keri-Thuroo kote route.
Before 10th century AD, the area was also dominated by people of Khasa Tribe of Indo-Aryan tribes who were great warriors and have also ruled from Banihal to Budhal of Pir Panjal belts. But later, Thakurs also overthrew them and took control of the region. Some people still speak Khasi language in Thuroo Village which is a matter of research to establish their links with Khasa tribe.
According to the Gulabnama, Maharaja Gulab Singh also made a visit to Thuroo Kote during his rule in Jammu and Kashmir and attempted to include the hilly areas with Reasi. However, at that time, Serpat Dhandi, the local ruler of this area, refused to accept the Maharaja’s proposal. Later, Zoarawar Singh annexed this region with Reasi and fixed malia (rent) which was increased from time to time. When land settlement began, the Dhandi Thakurs monarch held authority over this area, and they have continued to do so as Lamberdars. But after Big Landed Estates Abolition Act, 1950, Thuroo village was split into five Lambardari.
In 1947, massive migration took place from Thuroo towards Salal when this area was attacked by intruders but with the arrival of Indian Army, the intruders were pushed back and the migrated families returned there after six months to restart their life.
Due to its great height, Thuroo Kote also offers stunning views of other nearby peaks, including Salal Kote, Chillad Kote, Hunder Kote, Gari Kote, Tulmasta Kote, Gori Kote and a few other kote locations that were once used as enemy targets from above. Kote is nothing more than an elevated site with a religious deity’s abode and some historic buildings.
The location is around 150 km from the Jammu railway station and 60 km from the Reasi headquarters. Once the railway line through Reasi is completed, Thuroo Kote’s sacred site can also be accessed from Kouri or Bakkal in the village Kanthan. The area is suitable for adventurous trekking in Lapri Top, Ferad, Kopra Top and Maal Top in addition to religious tourism.
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