Chandrabhaga The Timeless Traveller

Priyanka Sharma
Thus speaks the Nadistuti sukta of the Rigved, resonating with the glory of the mighty rivers of Bharatvarsh. Be it the Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswati, Sutudri, Parushni, or the Asikni, Marudvridha, Vitasta, Arjikiya, Susoma, these majestic rivers have nourished and shaped our civilisation for times immemorial.
Through these verses ancient Rishis offer their prayers to these divine waters – with which mothers quench their children’s thirst, Kings consecrate their weapons for battle, crops grow – and sing glory to the unstoppable and unbounded fame that these waters carry. Just as Nadistuti Sukta has timelessly reverberated through various epochs of history, these primeval rivers have been gushing through the lands of Bharat bringing along prosperity and abundance.
In this hymn, the name Asikni emerges, paying homage to the river Chandrabhaga which is popularly known today as Chenab. Marudvridha, its largest tributary is also mentioned in the verse, locally known today as Marusudar. Sutudri (Satluj), Parushni (Ravi), Vitasta (Jhelum)mentioned in the verse, are also tributaries of Chandrabhaga.
Amidst the pristine Himalayas, the confluence of two streams, Chandra and Bhaga heralds the birth of Chandrabhaga as it springs forth with a divine grace, cascading through the rugged terrains and breathing life into the valleys it traverses through.Both Chandra and Bhaga have their origin on the opposite sides of the Baralacha La at an elevation of 4,900m in the Lahaul Valley of Himachal Pradesh. Separated by the Baralacha La, yet geographically drawn towards each other, Chandra and Bhaga finally meet at Tandi after flowing for 125 km and 80 km, respectively. Thereafter, the confluence flows northwest as Chandrabhaga. It receives its first major tributary after 46 km – the Miyar Nallah on the right bank at Udaipur, Himachal Pradesh.Then, it flows through the Pangi Valley and finally enters into Union Territoryof Jammu and Kashmir.
As it flows through Paddar region of District Kishtwar, the pulsating roars from the icy waters meet the gentle breeze from the lofty Deodar trees, echoing through the ravines where whispers of ancient rishis still resonate.Continuing in a north-westerly direction it is met with Bhotnallah at Gulabgarh, Paddar. One can reach the famous Chandi Mata Mandir at Machail by trekking along Bhotnallah, which is formed by the confluence of two streams near Machail. This is the same route that was followed by General Zorawar Singh and his Dogra army on his way to conquer Ladakh between 1834 & 1839.From Gulabgarh, Chandrabhaga moves on and is joined on its right bank by its largest tributary- Marusudar, at Bhandarkoot in Kishtwar. Marusudar has its origin in the Marwah region by the confluence of various streams at different places, the major streams being – Marau, Kiyar Nallah, Warwan river, Chatroo Nallah.After the confluence at Bhandarkoot, Chandrabhaga swiftly meanders around the Kishtwar plateau on its left, coursing vigorously in a southerly direction towards District Doda. The river flows for 34 km till Thathri and bends towards west to enter Doda where on its left bank,it is joined by the Niru Nallah that originates in Bhaderwah.Chandrabhaga then flows in a north-westerly direction and enters District Ramban, where it receives Bichleri, Chengi Nallah, Ind Nallah and Rajgarh Nallah.Flowing further in a south-western direction along Udhampur-Reasi border, Chandrabhaga turns westward towards District Reasi after receiving the Painthal river. In Reasi, Chandrabhaga is joined by Ans, Rudd, Plassu, Banganga, Pai and Anji streams. After receiving the Ans River, Chandrabhaga proceeds southward for approximately 45 km until it reaches Akhnoor.
Subsequently, Chandrabhaga leaves the Indian landscape to enter Sialkot District of Pakistan, where it forges ahead on its odyssey. As it flows through the heartland of Punjab and Sindh, Chandrabhaga is successively joined byTawi, Jhelum, Ravi and Sutlej, hence forming the Panjnad River. Panjnad runs southwest for about 44 miles and finally merges into the Indus River at Mithankot. Moving further south the Indus also receives the Kabul River (Rigved: Kubha ) near Attock, after which it is known as Saptnad. With a profound sense ofcontinuity,Indus finally bids farewell to the landmass as its waters embrace the depths of the Arabian Sea. Hence, Chandrabhaga symbolizes the perpetual union of the sky-touching Himalayas and the dark abyss of the Indian Ocean, the coming together of pristine glacial water and the briny seawater, and the amalgamation of diverse cultures along its banks.
As empires have risen and fallen, Chandrabhaga has flowed stead fast as a timeless witness- which it always was and will always be – to landmark events in ourItihas. One such momentous event took placeon the banks of Jhelum (Greek: Hydaspes) where, in May of 326 BC, a fierce battle was fought between Raja Puru (Greek: Porus) and Alexander of Macedonia.The Battle of Hydaspes would go down in history as the defining event that punctured the grand ambitions of Alexander, marking Paurav Rajya as the place where his relentless march met its resolute end.Hydaspes became synonymous with Alexander’s downfall and the disintegration of the Macedonian Empire. The battle was fought on the western frontier of the Paurav Rajyathat stretched between Jhelum and Chandrabhaga (Greek: Acesines) and proved to be one of the most decisive battles against a foreign invader Indians ever fought. The Pauravs equipped with their elephants decimated the invading army,demonstrating their shaurya to protect their Matrabhumi. The resolute resistance of the Pauravs left Alexander humbled and humiliated, shattering his delusions of grandeur. The battle exposed the hollowness of the title – ‘Alexander the Great’,as he suffered defeat at the hands of a small kingdom nestled in the banks between Jhelum and Chandrabhaga. Alexander was forced to retreat, acknowledging the indomitable spirit of lands beyond the Chandrabhaga. As he withdrew his exhausted troops, the haunting memories of Hydaspes must have made him rethink his pretentious self-proclamation of being the son of the Greek God Zeus-Ammon. Alas, it is quite evident however that he did indeed have a rendezvous with Zeus, albeit not in the mortal realm. For, as fate would have it, Alexander died on his way back from Bharat, succumbing to his injuries from the battle and left for his “heavenly” abode.
As we contemplate the past victories that echo through the banks of Chandrabhaga, we should reflect on how far we have come and what lies ahead to be accomplished. The once untamed river now drives turbines of progress. Numerous hydroelectric projects in the Chandrabhaga Basin have become a symbol of sustainable advancement, illuminating the lives of countless people and fueling industries that run the economy. The Chandrabhaga Basin has a rich power generation potential for hydroelectricity with the total economic potential estimated at 11,400 MW. The river basin is home to numerous operational hydroelectric projects, like – Dulhasti (in Kishtwar, 390 MW), Salal (in Reasi, 690 MW), Baglihar (in Ramban, 900 MW), etc. Several proposed and under-construction Hydroelectric Projects in the riverbasin include Pakal Dul (in Kishtwar, 1000MW ), Ratle (in Kishtwar, 850 MW), Sawalkot (in Ramban, 1856 MW), Seli (in Solan, 400 MW) among many others.The hydroelectric projects in the Chandrabhaga Basin are vital for stabilizing local power supply, driving industrial growth, and even generating employment. With more proposed and under-construction projects on the horizon, the river basin’s power generation capacity will receive a substantial boost. This will not only meet the regional demandsbut will also cater to the needs of neighboring areas fostering energy security and cooperation.
While Chandrabhaga has long been a source of prosperity for our ancestors and us, offering substantial benefits in terms of power generation and also driving agriculture, its current state demands our immediate attention. The river, once revered for its sacred waters, now faces the grave threat of pollution due to anthropogenic activities. Not a single day passes without untreated sewage being relentlessly dumped into the river at various locations. Industrial and domestic sewage is being discharged into the river in every town it flows through. Even in major towns, like Akhnoor, Kishtwar, Doda, Ramban, etc.,the Municipal Bodies fail to adhere to proper waste disposal practices,opting instead to openly dump solid waste into nearby gorges.Consequently, whenever it rains, the waste seeps into the river, exacerbating the pollution problem.The unchecked dumping of untreated sewage into the river raises significant environmental concerns and is even illegal.
To effectively address the pressing issue, regulatory bodies like the Central Pollution Control Board (CPCB) and Jammu & Kashmir Pollution Control Committee (JKPCC) must actively monitor and enforce compliance with regulations, imposing stringent penalties on offenders and promoting proper waste management practices.The National Green Tribunal (NGT) should promptly takeSuo Moto cognizance and implement rigorous measures to prevent further endangerment of the river’s health. Resolute actions must be taken without delay, before it reaches a point of no return.For, rivers are the pulsating veins of our nation, and ahealthy Swachh Bharat can only flourish when these lifelines flow with pure and untainted waters. Our San?tan traditions have always believed in
Sarva Khalvida Brahma,
i.e., All this is Brahma. This essentially means that we have always perceived every animate and inanimate in nature as manifestations of divinity. Our traditions teach us co-existence with nature, without the need to dominate or ‘conquer’ it.
The Chandrabhaga, akin to a venerable elder, has gracefully steered the course of civilization with its timeless wisdom and nurturing presence.Let us vow to preserve Chandrabhaga for our future generations – in the same pristine form our ancestors entrusted to us – so that it may continue guiding civilisations. For, they also rightfully deserve to cherish the divinity of Chandrabhaga in its most pristine form.
(The author is UG student at University of Delhi.)