Junaid Hussain Malik
Every place is known by some of its unique attribute which could either be a historical monument, a fort, a palace a shrine a poet or some unique legend or a local epic placing it on different stage of geographic contours. But when it comes to my native place which is cradled between lofty snow clad mountains surrounded by beautiful meandering rivers, saffron fields and sapphire mines ; Kishtwar has a distinct and aortal symbol in the form of Chowgan which is not only the heart of the town but a cultural,regional and recreational epitome of love and camaraderie between the communities and generations. Chowgan which literally means the polo is the name of a large natural pasture within the heart of city of Kishtwar existing naturally since centuries which has seen different epochs through the chronicles of time.
The chowgan,an oval shaped palatial pasture measuring 165 acres or 520 Kanals in area dotted all around by majestic Chinar trees is an undulating plane which resembles the Prairies of North America and Canadian grass lands in its geographical connotations. The Chowgan is overlooked by revered shrine of Shah Asrar-Ud-Din Baghdadi on its south,a small airport and Gori Shankar temple on its north,a char Chinar (group of four Chinar trees)on its east bordering NH1B and famous Kishtwar saffron fields on its west. It is also surrounded by different varieties of conifers and other ornamental plants all over its borderline. The pasture is full of herbs and nutritious grass which also produces a good quality of mushrooms but its growth has now dwindled due many factors of human interference.
Chowgan is not only a geographical entity but a symbol of peace,harmony and camaraderie existing between the communities for centuries together. In others words Chowgan has played the role of bond between communities, generations,cultural assimilation and their down flow of ethical values in this evolving society. In 1947 when the whole India was engulfed in communal frenzy and millions of people were butchered on both sides, Jammu and Kashmir was not immune to this pogrom. Tens of thousands people were killed and ratios were reversed, Kishtwar was the only place in state which showed the real human face to the world. The elders and brigadiers of peace of both Hindus and Muslims used to sit together in this Chowgan to formulate joint plans of watch and ward and joint march during the night to maintain the historical brotherhood of place albeit the situation has reversed now due to political lust of few parochial elements.
The Chowgan is place of religious activities and an abode of congregation for all the communities devoid of any bias and discrimination. The Muslims hold their Eid prayers in this ground twice a year and the funeral prayers are also held here. The annual Urs of Shah Farid-ud-Din and Shah Asrar-ud-Din the revered Muslim saints of 16th century who came here in the propagation of Islam all the way from Baghdad are also held here. The pilgrims stay here in make shift tents and also hold the annual bazaar for them during these festivals.on the other hand, the annual festival of Dussehra and Ram Navmi is also celebrated in Chowgan with full religious fervor during the festival of Dussehra the effigies of Ravana are burnt here and during the Ram Navmi the idol bearing palanquin are gathered here. On the extreme south a patch of Chowgan is used as cremation ground for the Hindu community since decades now. The Chowgan is a Centre of festivals, festivities, congregations and communal harmony between the communities.
Besides, the religious festivities,the Chowgan is an acronym for sports and recreational activities. Since the Chowgan is located in the midst of town,the sport lovers throng the ground through out the year to play their respective games. On the very first sight, an looker can see innumerable teams playing cricket, football, badminton and other sports in the ground cricket being the dominant one. On the south end there is huge even patch which is traditionally a sort of cricket stadium for the game lovers. All the school, college, university, interstate tournaments are held here apart from private clubs who recently called international teams like Bangladesh and Afghanistan to nurture local talent and expose them to international standards. Besides cricket, football,lawn tennis,baseball are some other games being played here throughout the year. Apart from this the walkers could be seen in hundreds during morning and evening hours to destress themselves. For the local populace the Chowgan is a health abode where they stroll, play and keep themselves healthy and hearty. The Chowgan also serves as a venue for the Indian national festivals of Independence Day and Republic Day apart from being the venue for annual festivals and recruitment agencies.During the days of construction of Dulhasti hydroelectric project, the Chowgan was also used as a base strip for paragliding from Kalamsatar heights which furthered the interest of adventure lovers. A Gandola project which has often been demanded by local populace from Chowgan upto Kalamsatar and surrounding hills can boost the tourism potential of this hilly and beautiful district. The travellers and trekkers could visit the Nagisheer peaks which overlooks the famous padder valley and Virgin Brahma peaks. With the onset of winter the scene around Chowgan changes with the first snowfall which makes this large pasture into an abode of snow. Since the Chowgan is centrally located in the city people from every where including children, elders and tourist throng the place with their sports and electronic tools to capture pictures and ski on the sledges.At this point of time, Kishtwar is no less than a Gulmarg or Switzerland of west. Its is small retreat away from the luxurious and expensive trips to other hill stations.
Since the priorities have changed,so does the value of beautification is being targeted by the vested interests. The natural bounty of the Chowgan has been marred by construction of concrete path around the circular edges which tattered within days. Every now and then the politically backed contract groups destroy its panorama by substandard and unscientific ways of constructions. This pasture is a symbol of our heritage,our camaraderie and our bonhomie and we must rise above the lineages of any isms to protect our natural and cultural heritage.