Ashok Sharma
Udhampur is famous for various temples and shrines. There are temples dedicated to various gods and goddesses, which bear testimony to our rich heritage, culture and craftsmanship. Here is a short description of some of the famous temples of Udhampur. Some of them were broken by the aggressors while others, though centuries old, are still in good condition and are famous across the world for their archaeological and architectural significance.
BABOUR TEMPLES
Babour group of ruined temples,located at Manwal (Old name ‘Babore’ or ‘Babbapur’) at a distance of about 45 kms from Jammu and 25 Km from Udhampur,dates back to 10th and 11th century.Historians are of the view that this ruined town used to be the capital of Duggar in the medieval times. These magnificent temples are spread in the area of three Sq. Kms.
Though, partially ruined, these five temples named Devi Bhagwati temple, Dera Babour temple,Kala Dera -1, Kala Dera-2 & Nand Babour temple in the region are the main attraction for tourists and archaeologists for their historical and archaeological importance. These beautiful temples have exquisite craftsmanship and architecture. They have intricately carved figures of god. These temples throw light on the sculpture of Duggar.The idols of Lord Vishnu ,Shiva,Shiva (dancing),Bhairav,Ganesha,the Sun and local artists among others found here are worth mentioning.All these temples have been declared as protected monuments by the Archaeological Survey of India.
DEVI BHAGWATI TEMPLE
Built in the Nagara style, thetemple is saptaratha on plan and faces south western direction. On plan this temple consists of a garbhagriha (sanctum), antaral (vestibule), an Ardhamandapa (entrance porch) and mandapa which is a later addition. The mandapa is survived with two columns. Its wall comprises eight niches and another entrance in the north -western wall. Doorway of antaral is carved with the figures of Ganga and Yamuna on the doorjambs and Lord Ganesha at the centre of lintel whereas the doorway of garbhagriha is carved with figures of Vaishnava Dwarpalas on the doorjambs and Lord Vishnu at the centre of lintel.
DERA BABOUR TEMPLE
Dera Babour Temple is a large temple at Manwal dedicated to Lord Shiva and faces west. Built on a high platform, it is approached by flight of steps. It has four garbhagrihas(sanctum), each perceived by an antral (vestibule) in front and ardhmandapa (entrance porch) which are attached to a mandapa (hall). Mandapa is survived by eight fluted columns which are remarkable for their elephant head capitals. Exceptionally, the mandapa has two balconies in front and one on the lateral side. Sanctum doors are carved with figures of river Goddesses, female attendants on the doorjambs and Lord Ganesh at the centre of lintel. The lintel of northern shrine antarala is noteworthy for its navgraha panel. Entrances in the northern and eastern wall of mandapa lead to an open ambulatory passage. The temple is assignable to circa 10th century A.D.
KALA DERA -1
Located at a distance of about 1.25 Kms from Devi Bhagwati Temple, this temple has been built on a platform, about 2. 30 mts high. It is approached by a flight of ten steps. On plan, it consists of a mandapa (hall) an Ardhmandapa (entrance porch), antaral (vestibule) and garabhgriha (sanctum). Mandapa is survived by eight big columns and twelve small columns. The garbhagriha is square in shape and the entrance is 2.37mts high and 1.10 mts wide. Under the entrance is a big rock about 2 mt 60cm long and 53cm high. Next to it is an antaral, 2.38 mt long and 1.34 mt wide. Doorjambs of the sanctum are decorated with sculptured reliefs.This temple is assignable to the 10-11th century AD.
KALA DERA-2
This temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is located on the backside of Kala Dera 1 at a distance of about 30 mts.Built on a platform,it is approached by a flight of five steps.it consists of a garbhagriha (sanctum), antaral (vestibule) and a mandapa (hall). The mandapa is square in shape having three entrances. Its northern wall wears a defaced Saradha inscription. Externally, the shrine is saptaratha on plan. The lantern type ceiling is supported by fluted columns and is well preserved.Doorjambs of the sanctum are decorated with figures of river goddesses and Ganesha is at the centre of the lintel.There is also a headless Nandi at the entrance,which must have occupied a central position in the temple plan.This temple is compact and better preserved than Kala Dera1 and is assigned to the 10-11th century.
NAND BABOUR TEMPLE
Nand Babour Temple is a small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and faces south. Itstands on a rectangular platform and on plan it consists of nine garabhgrihas (sanctum). Each garabhgriha has an antral (vestibule) in front of it which are attached to a common mandapa (hall). Lantern type ceiling of the mandapa rested on small fluted columns is decorated with pots and foliage. Its eastern wall depicts a miniature temple with curvilinear Shikhara with seven bhumis. Doorways of the antarala and garbhagriha are carved with figures of Siva, Parvati, Ganga and Yamuna on the doorjambs. Ganesh is flanked by Laxmi and Parvati on the lintel of the temple.
All the shrines are pancharatha externally and are decorated with simple mouldings, ornate pedimented niches and triangles, for parsva devtas (subsidiary Gods) on Bhadra (central projection) and smaller niches for astadikpalas (eight guardians of quarters) on karnarathas (corner projections).
In 1398-99, Taimur is said to have invaded a town named ‘Manu’ which is believed to be Babbapur as it is also known by the name of Manwal. Some historians believe that it was Taimur who broke these temples.
Krimachi Temples
Krimachi is famous for world famous Krimachi temples also called Pandava temples which have been declared as protected monuments by Archaeological Survey of India. This group of seven temples is believed to have been built in the 8th-9th century in the Nagar Style, though the local folklore says they were built by the Pandavas during the period of their exile when they stayed here for a long time. These temples marked as No1 to 7 by Archaeological Survey of India(ASI)for easy reference can be divided into three parts. These temples, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, Ganesha, Shiva and Mata Parvati can undoubtedly, be called the wonderful piece of craftsmanship.
Jalandhara Devi Temple, Laddan
This temple exists at village Laddan Kotli about 5 Kms from Udhampur District Head Quarter. The temple has been constructed on a platform and there are steps to enter it. The foundation of the temple is very strong and the walls taper as they reach the top. The entrance faces the west and is built of exquisitvely carved stones. On both sides of the the vestibule( antral) there are two stone pillars around 2.1 m high. There are three idols of gods fixed on the front face above the door. After entering the vestibule, there is an idol of Lord Ganesh and above the door there are well crafted idols of nine goddesses riding their vahans. There is also an idol of Lord Brahma and three faced Sun God. The door of grabhgriha ( sanctum) measures 1.50 by 0.75 m. Garbhgraha is square in shape and inside is kept an idol of Jalanandhara Mata which is 0.5 by 0.3m. The idol is light black in colour and the the goddess has been shown to be four armed riding a lion. The outer walls of the temple have also been decorated with beautiful idols.
Sudh Mahadev Temple
This temple is the pristine glory of this priceless heritage. The main temple has been constructed on a raised platform. The entry point or the threshold is called Deodi. In the front portion of this temple there is a Haweli of Raja of Chenani now donated for public cause. In the temple complex, the pilgrims find Samadhis of Nath priests of the temple .The trident of Lord Shiva broken into three pieces is buried deep in front of the main temple. Legends say that Lord Shiva had thrown this trident from Kailash to kill a local demon called Sudhant, who was causing obstacles in the worship of Goddess Parvati. It is believed that this most sacred idol of Shiv-Parvati was discovered by a farmer while ploughing his field at some distance from the present temple and that place is known as Ambunj Tirath.
Vardeshwar Mahadev Mandir, Jaganoo
This temple is located on a a small hillock at Jaganoo around 12 Kms from Udhampur. There are steps to reach the temple. The entrance to the temple is 1.75 by 0.88.On the doorway are the idols of Dwarpals one of which is0. 55 by 0.33m and the other is0. 48 by 0.32 m. Boththese idols are artististic and beautiful. The Garbhgraha of the temple is decorated with each side 3.33m . In the middle is installed the Shivlingam and nearby has been installed the joint idol of Shiva Parvati which measures 1.22m by 0.75m.The temple has also the idols of four-armed Luxmi, Mahakali, Durga, The outer walls of the temple are strong and made of strong stones. The temple is believed to have been built by Raja Karan Dev in 1510 but it has been renovated many times since then which has changed its structure.(‘ Duggar ke Mandir’ by Prof Shiv Nirmohi).
Raghu Nath Temple at Devika
This temple is located on the western bank of holy Devika, is believed to have been constructed in 1919 Vikrami or 1863 AD by Maharaja Ranbir Singh on the orders of his mother Rani Rakwal. Its main entrance faces north and the temple has been built on a platform 8.5 by 8.5 m. There are stairs to reach the platform. There are three entrances to reach the Mandap which is 4.5 by 2.5 m. It has 08 pillars about 1.5 m high. The temple has a grand entrance which is 2m high and 1. 5 m wide. In the grabhgraha, the temple has the idols of Lord Rama, Laxmam and Sita Mata.
Narsingh Temples:
Narsingh Temple at Ram Nagar is one of the famous temples of Udhampur. The entrance to this temple faces the north and is about 6m by 4 m. The platform is around 0.60 m above ground level. The Mandap is rectangular 10.5 by 3.30 m & supported by 8 pillars of around 0.75 m.In the Garbhgarha, the metallic idol of God Narsingh is installed which is one of the rarest idols.
Nag Temples:
Nag Temple at Bhurdar, Dhanas is located in village Dhanas in Tehsil Chenani of District Udhampur. This temple faces north and is located at a distance of about 1.5 Kms from Budha Kedar Nath cave amongst dense forests. The temple is about four metre high with 1.70 Km high entrance. The temple , constructed with stones has a height of 0.75 m above ground level. The temple has a square garbhgraha where a life size idol of Nag Devta has been installed. The crown on Nag Devta has seven hoods. In the middle of the crown is is a round wheel having symbols of nag devtas. The Devta has a round face, big eyes with two hands raised upwards. One hand bears a Kalash & the other, a symbol of Nag. The outer walls of the temple measure 2.5 by 2.5 m. The upper part of the temple is triangular and the devotees have to climb three stairs to enter the temple.
Other famous temples at Udhampur District include Khyuneshwar Temple at Khoon, Nainsoo Temple, Mela Baag Temple, Sagaun Temple, Swami Jagan Nath Temple at Thial etc. All these temples bear testimony to our rich culture, craftsmanship and architecture in the days of yore.
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