Robin Koul
On the mountain ridge near the Khunmoh village there is a natural cave dedicated to Lord Shiva known as Harishore cave. According to the legends, every year once the rock outside the cave gets bigger in size, to close the mouth of the cave, to the dimension of a Vushka grain (barley). Also just above this holy cave from outside there is a small spring where one can find the marks of Nandi Maharaj engraved on a large rock.
Geographical description: Hariishwar or Harishore cave is located in the upper Khunmoh, around five kilometers of trek from the last vehicle point. Khanmoh or Khunmoh comes from the word Khenmoksha. Yatra starts from Khonmoh Naag, whose original name was Kshanmoksha Naag. In olden times people used to take a bath in that before proceeding to the yatra. Also a temple dedicated to Mata Buwnashweri comes on the route. One can find script written in Sharda in that temple. Before reaching Khanmoh there comes another spring called Zewan Naag, whose actual name was Jayawan Naag close to Panthachowk.
On the way there comes a rocky patch with a steep inclination known as Yama Hayr (Stairs of Yahama). Gradient of most of the route is steep with loose rocks on the way. Route passes through an almost treeless landscape.
There are two important caves in which one of the caves have two openings and falls in the middle of the route itself. It is almost twenty feet deep and one can reach to the bottom with the help of an iron ladder fixed inside.
The formation of structures and recesses due to Stalactites and Stalagmites gives it an otherworldly grace. One could easily find the shining quartz stone beneath the layers of calcium carbonate (calcite or lime).
The main and a larger cave come around fifty meters before this cave. It is not visible while passing through from the main trek and can be easily missed by common eyes. A steep slope has to be threaded towards the side of the cliff to reach the entrance where one can find bright engravings on rock surface in Sharda script. The mouth of the cave is considered as the opening of a shanka (sea shell). It looks similar to the Gastropoda class of shells. The cave is around fifteen to twenty feet deep and is led by a wooden stair. One can have a Prakut (clear) Darshan of Svayambhu (self-born) Shivlinga of Lord Shiva, Mata Parvati and Lord Ganesha in the form of a Shivling, made by natural phenomena of Stalagmites. A Stalactites formation on the ceiling which drips water on this natural lingam is considered as the Vasak Nag (the serpent around the neck of Lord Shiva).
Mythological Relevance: In ancient texts of Hinduism, there was a powerful asura called Bhasmasura. Pleased by the great devotion and severe penance by the demon, Lord Shiva himself granted him a boon that anyone whose head he touched with his hand will be burned up into ashes (bhasma). Bhasmasura became arrogant with the power of boon, and started to trouble all the dwellers of three lokas (worlds). The arrogant Rakshasa had an evil thought that if he will burn up Lord Shiva’s head there will remain no one greater than himself.
It was the lela (play) of lord, and Shiva had to run to save himself and it is said he hid himself in this Khunmoh cave with Mata Parvati and Ganesha and performed meditation in this very place.
To save Shiva, Vishnu transformed himself into a beautiful apsara (Nymph) known to be Mohini, an attractive dancer, who allured him with her charm, and initiated a dance called the Muktantya. Bhasmasura agreed to the match and hence they started dancing. The feat went for days to an end. During the course of this dance, Bhasmasura was tricked to place his hand on his own head. The moment his hand touched his head, he was burnt to ashes.
Historical Relevance: Khonmoh, Khunamoh, Khonmukh or Khunamusha is a village located in Srinagar North Tehsil of Srinagar district in Jammu & Kashmir. Khunamusha was one of the Principal ancient cities of Kashmir. It has been identified with the present Khunamoh. Famous Sanskrit poet Bilhan of 12th century who is famous for his love poem the “Chaurapancasika” (Fifty verses by a thief’) was also born here. Rajatarangini tells us that Lava was succeeded by his son Kusheshaya, who was a powerful prince. He bestowed the village of Kuruhara on Brahmanas. His son Khagendra, who succeeded him, was a valorous and patient king. He destroyed many of his Naga enemies. He founded the villages of Khagikhuna.
Kashmir visit of Xuanzang in 631 AD- Alexander Cunningham writes that the names of Khagipura and Khunamusha are referred by Kalhan Pandit to Raja Khagendra, who, as the sixth predecessor of Asoka, must have reigned about 400 B.C. Wilson and Troyer have identified these two places with the Kakapur and Gaumoha. Khunamusha is now represented by the large village of Khunamoh, which is situated under the hills at 4 miles to the north-east of Pampur.
It is an important place for archaeological and geological research as ancient temples and limestone fossils have been discovered in this area.
Flora and Fauna Observed:
Fauna: Praying Mantis (Mantis Religiosa), The Small Copper Butterfly (Lycaenaphlaeas), Millipede (Muhur insects). Kashmir cave Bat (Myotislongipes), Kashmir rock agama Lizard (Laudakiatuberculata), Spiral snail or graceful awl snail (Allopeasgracile), Green Dock Leaf Beetle (Gastrophysaviridula), Apisceranaindica or Asian honey bee, Specimens of fossils of possibly Bivalves (clam shell) or Brachiopoda.
Flora: Foxtail Lily (Eremurusrobustus) , Cotton Thistle (Onopordumacanthium), Van Tulsi or Wild Basil, Kashmiri handh (Dandelion), Star Thistle or Kreas (Centaureasolstitialis), Creeping Thyme (Thymuspraecox), Common sage or Sholar (Salviaofficinalis).
Conclusion: The divine and mystical experience attained inside the cave can’t be explained in words. One can feel connected to lord Mahadeva when you are inside the cave. Administration may help to construct a trekking route and resting Gazebo huts on the way for the comfort of the pilgrims and trekkers. Revival of old heritage, religious and cultural sites of Kashmir, are the need of the hour, otherwise, they may get buried under the wrath of the time. Jai Kasmira!
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