Robin Koul
Every spring, every mountain, every stream, every river and almost every place in Kashmir, has a spiritual, religious and historical relevance to our culture, tradition and closely related to our ancestors.
Those places have transformed to a common tourist or picnic spot for new generations. Tourists from other parts of the country and world, I can understand what they are searching for, but for us, to understand Kashmir is more important than anything. It is a journey to know our own self.
Our ancestors had devised a unique way for folks to venture out from their homes and get connected to nature in the guise of “Yatras”. Annually in specific timings according to the climatic and geographical conditions they used to perform a Yatra to a specific place. Yatras are not just a pilgrimage to a religious place but it creates a community bonding, gives us time to contemplate on the treasures and miracles of nature and at the same time tests our physical, mental, emotional and spiritual strengths. Various famous Yatras in Kashmir like Gangbal, Kaunsar Naag, Amaranth, Harishwer and many more are performed nowadays also. And many have been forgotten in the wraps of time.
One of our ancient Yatras to the Legendary Mountain Mahadev which has frequent references in our ancient books has been forgotten by the people. Numerous references to it in the Nilamata, Sarvavatara and other texts show that it was in old times frequented as a Tirtha. Now it has transformed into an adventure and tourist destination among the local population and tourists, without knowing its historical, spiritual and religious significance.
Mahadev Peak: It is a mountain peak in the vicinity of New Theed in Srinagar District. It is part of the Zabarwan Range, visible in most parts of Srinagar city, also known as the peak of Srinagar. It is covered with snow for almost half of the year. Other than Mahadev peak, places like Mamneth, Astanmarg, Ledwas, Burzwas, are also famous among the trekkers. Among the prominent mountains that can be seen from the peak is Mt. Harmukh in the north, Mt. Kalhoi (Gwash Brari), Amarnath peak and also the view of Srinagar which the peak looks down upon. Tarsar & Marsar twin lakes fall on the eastern side.
Route: Starting from Srinagar we have to pass Harwan towards New Theed to reach Dara (ancient Dwara). The trek starts from Faqir Gujri, near Scholars’ School, towards Nila Pantsal, Bobjan and Lidvas (ancient Rudrawas) where we can set up the base camp. Then one can start towards the peak passing Wover Gol (Weavers opening), Haindvend Pather (Watermelon meadow) towards Mahadev Peak.
The trail mostly runs alongside the Dhara stream and one sees a gradual increase in the gradient. We have to pass through around five water crossings flowing with chilled water. Beautiful views of pine forest, its fragrance, a variety of bird species chirping through your way. Birch (Burza kul) trees are usually found at these altitudes. Continuous gushing of the stream all warms you up to the moderately difficult trail. The rocky parts of the trail are easier in dry weather. Base camp can be set up at Lidwas. In summers the warm hearted Gujjar community people often host Namkeen tea and lassi. Most beautiful views of the scenery and the peaks are obtained from the Lidwas. The sight of the night sky with its innumerable stars is another good thing about this place.
Historical references: The name itself declares the magnitude of its importance. “Mahadev” the lord Shiva in itself is presiding and blessing over Srinagar as the highest peak of the district. Only having a site of this mountain will grace the blessings in one’s life. Few of the references I have tried to collect are as follows.
Tareikh-e-Hassan- A History of Kashmir Vol 1, Peer Hassan Shah (1823- 1898) English Translation by Prof Shafi Shauq. Jammu & Kashmir Academy of Art, Culture and Languages, Page-74.
According to Peer Hassan Shah, Mahadev Mountain, “Hindus consider it a sacred site. At top lies an ancient glacier which remains frozen for all twelve months. Some people get ice from it and vend in the streets of the city. On Sawan Purnimashi, the Pundits make pilgrimage to this site.”
Kalhana’s Rajatarangini, M.A. Stein. Motilal Banarasidass Publishers. Ancient Geography of Kashmir, Page-410 & 456,
“The whole mountain-ridge which stretches to the south of Triphar and along the Dal, bore in ancient times the name of Sridvara. On the opposite side of the valley rises the bold peak of Mahadeva to a height of over 13,000 feet. The extremity of this ridge in the west forms the amphitheatre of bold hills which encircle Dal Lake and Srinagar on the north.”
The Valley of Kashmir- Walter Lawrence. Chapter II, descriptive Chap II, General Mountains, Page 14,
“The mountains which surround Kashmir are never monotonous. Infinitely varied in form and colour, they are such as an artist might picture in his dreams. Looking to the north one sees a veritable sea of mountains, broken into white crested waves, hastening in wild confusion to the great promontory of Nanga Parbat (26,620 feet). To the east stands Haramukh (16,903 feet), the grim mountain which guards the valley of the Sind. On it the legend says the snow only ceases to fall for one week in July, and men believe that the gleam from the vein of green emerald in the summit of the mountain renders all poisonous snakes harmless. Further south is Mahadeo, very sacred to the Hindus, which seems to almost look down on Srinagar, and south again are the lofty range of Gwash Brari (17,800 feet), and the peak of Amarnath (17,331 feet), the mountain of the pilgrim, very beautiful in the evening sun.”
The Nilamata Purana Vol. II, Jammu & Kashmir Academy of Art, Culture and Languages. Dr. Ved Kumari, Page 342, Verse No. 1371.
“One is honoured in the world of Rudra by seeing the mountain Mahadeva after having a plunge in the Mahuri in front of Tripuresa.”
The Nilamata Purana Vol. I, The Geology and the Geography, Jammu & Kashmir Academy of Art, Culture and Languages. Dr. Ved Kumari, Page- 25.
“Amaresvara is the tirtha on the snowy peak of Amarnatha, and Mahadevagiri is the westernmost peak of the highest ridge of the mass of mountains lying between the Sind valley and eastern range of mountains.”
Vision of Ali Mardan Khan: He was the Kurdish governor of Kashmir appointed by Shah Jahan, the governor who built Cheshmeshahi Garden. He also built the famous Shalimar Garden in Lahore. He too is associated with the legend of having a philosopher stone which he got from a dead snake (Naga) woman. One night he was strolling around Shalimar Garden when his eyes suddenly fell on Mahadeo peak and saw something, believed he saw Shiva himself. He went on to write a poem on his experience. The poem has turned into a famous bajan in various version and few of the line are quoted below:
Ajab Sanyaasi -e-deedam
“Namoh Narayana “Guftam
E-Khaakay paaye bosidham
Shab Shah e ki mun deedam
A strange sanyasi my eyes saw,
At that sight, I uttered “Namoh Narayan”
I kissed the dust at his feet ,
That king I saw last night.
Nigahay bar manay Miskeen
Namood Az Chashm e Tabaan Tar
Makanash Laamkan tar bood
Shab Shah e ki mun deedam.
Upon a poor man like me,
He cast a glance,
His eyes were bright and radiating,
His abode, I saw in that infinite and uninhabited Land,
That king I saw last night.
Se chash-mash bar jabeen khushtar
Ze mehr o Maah Roshantar,
Hilaalash Taaj bar sar bood
Shab shahe ki mun deedam..
With three eyes shining bright like the
Sun and the moon,
Beautiful looked his forehead.
On his head, he wore the crescent as his Crown,
That king I saw last night.
Tailpiece: If we take a dip into our basic ancient texts like Nilmata Purana and Kalhana’s Rajatarangini we can come across a number of geographical and cultural facts which most in the present generation are unaware of. It is the dire need to regenerate those traditions in today’s times. And one way is by reviving our ancient Yatras, through which we can get connected to our roots. Jai Mahadev! Jai Kasmira!
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