Rajan Gandhi
Heritage is nothing but combination of cultural and social beliefs, practically a bridge connecting past, present and future. Jammu is fortunate to have one such rich heritage spreading across almost 400 years. Present Mubarak Mandi, originally known as ‘Darbar Garh’, was initially constructed by Raja Dhruv Dev (1707-1733) and later Dogra Maharajas built more palaces/buildings as per ever increasing requirements with expansion of Jammu Samrajya. Till 1925 these palaces were the seat of Dogra Royals when Maharaja Hari Singh shifted to Amar Mahal. Unlike other states, J&K Government took over all main properties after exile of Maharaja Hari Singh. 50 years of what seems intentional misuse by Kashmir centric State Government offices just ruined these heritage palaces/buildings and even now it seems a plan to finish last Dogra footprints from heart of Jammu City also. What was once the lifeline and pride of Jammu, under systematic sinister set scheme, has been just vandalised and after withstanding nearly 40 fires and daily systematic destructions finally Estates Department of Government in 1995 declared the Palace Complex unsafe and started shifting offices.
But the damage was already done as almost every room was altered, many new rooms built to accommodate more employees and ever growing file size, walls of the Sheesh Mahal built with decorated mirrors peeled off, French printed and Italian marbled floors hammered and cracked, cement plastering, partitioning, white washing, smoke just took away all the beauty and elegance. Onslaught of fires, earthquakes, rains with no repairs at all was too much to withstand and as such beautiful floral designs, exquisitely carved ceilings, unique railings, beautifully painted outstanding pillars, decorated Arches, lotus Domes, precious wall paintings and best of all Latticed Jharokhas of several prominent buildings inside the complex just vanished. Cracks/holes in walls and roofs appeared as plants and vegetation grew over roofs/walls and earthquakes finally made the whole complex as Ghost Complex of present form. Once an important ‘seat of power’, a 21-gun salute largest Princely State of India with borders touching Afghanistan, China, Russia, Tibet, Nepal of our majestic Dogra rulers, Mubarak Mandi Complex has been reduced to one helpless edifice with no one to protect its past glory despite the fact that this complex of 24 blocks with the oldest structure dating back to 1710, is as important for Dogras at present as Taj Mahal or Amar Mahal of Jaipur.
A committee headed by Dr M. S. Randhawa in the late 1970s suggested measures for its preservation but recommendations were never implemented. Jammu will always be indebted to Jammu based writers for consistently raising the issue and Shri Jagmohan, then Minister for Tourism and Culture who sanctioned an ad-hoc grant of 4.5 crore for much needed upkeep, restoration and some internal works of Dogra Art Museum and Repository Library. Archives, Archaeology and Museum Department looks after 48 State protected monuments/sites of archaeological/historical importance, but with its limited resources/manpower was unable to reverse the immense damage to the MM structure though department declared Mubarak Mandi Complex as a ‘Protected Monument vide SRO-126 on 26 April 2005’. October 2005 devastating earthquake initiated establishment of Mubarak Mandi Jammu Heritage Society (MMJHS) in 2006 with an objective to preserve Mubarak Mandi Heritage Complex and to restore its original grandeur, but for conservation and management purposes only. An Executive Committee with members from Civil Society also was also formed responsible for day-today affairs of the society. Under 13th Finance Commission Award, GoI approved Rs 50 crores for the restoration of Raja Amar Singh Palace, Dogra Art Museum, Badi Deodi, Royal Court and Gadvai and Mahal of Raja Ram Singh’s Queens. Rs 8.51 crores was released as the first instalment but no ‘Utility Certificate’ was given as such no further grants were released subsequently. ASI was roped in and it started the conservation work of Old High Court Building/Army HQ on 30.9.2008, completed work by August 2011 and handed over to MMJHS with much fanfare in January 2012 but no proposed utilisation of this restored complex was done till 2020 when Archives Section was moved here after much resistance by present ED, even defying written orders by Advisor to Governor.
In the first meeting of MMJHS, chaired by the CM Gulam Nabi Azad Society was assigned task of safeguarding complex, shifting of Toshakhana, establishment of a dedicated Civil Engineering sub-division for Mubarak Mandi, underground cabling, demarcation of boundaries of Mubarak Mandi complex, stationing of Fire and Emergency services, providing of road link to adjoining areas from outside the old High Court, expression of interest for heritage hotel, preparation/declaration of Heritage Zone of Jammu city master plan, tackling monkey menace, parking facilities, illumination of Mubarak Mandi complex from Tawi side etc. Fact is that except repeatedly pursuing ‘Heritage Hotel’ by respective EDs none of the other assigned work has been done till date. Even Division Bench of HC passed stringent observations against MMJHS as only 10% of assigned work has been completed in almost one and half decade. It is astonishing to mention that Executive Committee meetings discussed drivers, workers instead of serious work. PDD despite getting almost one crore couldn’t provide/shift underground cabling.
Practically as usual what happens in J&K, mismanagement with no accountability and loot of public funds continues till date. Diwaan-e-Aam, built in 1925, of a ‘Protected Monument’ was demolished and it took years to get that restored. In between INTACH reuse plan proposed establishment of Heritage Hotel to promote tourism came up despite the fact that no ‘Protected Monument’ can be converted into Heritage Hotel and this fact has been clearly told by ASI to Executive Committee time and again as recorded in the minutes of 22nd Executive meeting as late as 2016. Fact is all Heritage Hotels in India are private properties as such under the disguise of Niti Ayog proposal of PPP no one can convert Protected Monument into Heritage Hotel. Additionally, this plan itself has no basis as tourists come to a place for its historic value or climate or pilgrimage, nowhere in world tourists go to see a hotel itself. Also mentioned in minutes of same meeting that earlier EOI advertised for Heritage Hotel received 3 bids who were asked to give presentations but no one turned up. It is important to mention that Convenor of J&K Chapter of INTACH is former DG Tourism of J&K and Jammu Chapter Convener is former Director Tourism Jammu/former ED MMJHS.
Jammu is actually facing identity crisis, with Delhi-Amritsar-Katra Express highway in progress, ring road across Jammu, proposed Bhaderwah-Kishtwar-Doda direct road from Lakhanpur, direct railway link of Kashmir, International Airport project shelved, Jammu will be bypassed from every direction be it Kashmir, Rajouri, Poonch or Doda-Kishtwar-Bhaderwah. With projects like Artificial Lake, Tawi River Front, Jammu Zoo nowhere in sight why at first place tourists will come to Jammu. With existing hotels already unable to survive why MMJHS is repeatedly interested in establishing hotel? Practically speaking this Mubarak Mandi has been money spinner for bureaucrats who have no connect with Dogra sentiments or for that matter anything except dilly delaying restoration. When INTACH plan had been put in cold storage in 2010 itself after protests, clearly objected by ASI under laws and right now there is no paucity of funds, the main reason cited for PPP Heritage Hotel Project, why a decade old rejected proposal has been raked up once again. In 2018, Governor S.P.Malik passed new ‘Master Plan’ for Mubarak Mandi after due deliberations with all stake holders and for last two years MMJHS has been claiming that restoration and preservation are going on perfectly as per Master Plan under supervision of World Class Consultant chosen after due consultations and with proven track record, then why the consultant contract stands terminated, no reason has been assigned why there is sudden shift with rejection of Master Plan of MMJHS itself and a decade old proposal being pushed once again in an autocratic way as ‘Executive Council’ right now has no member from Civil Society. Who is taking decisions on behalf of Dogras? When Master plan clearly defines every detail about how the things will shape, how restored building will be utilised, how front blocks will be utilised to push Heritage Tourism and it even clearly states the need of roping in of either Indian Railways or National Highway Authority of India to strengthen the foundation of backside of Mubarak Mandi which has seen major fire and natural damage, but MMJHS failed to initiate anything on this front with the result no work could be started at the backside. As per the available information extensive damage has been done inside with plasters peeled, exquisite rare tiles removed, decorative original ceilings removed/ damaged, no proper spectroscopy done, no proper lab analysis of material used to match with original material.
Above and all violating all laws whole labour employed is residing inside the Mubarak Mandi Complex itself with new toilets built, kitchens inside the halls itself and practically labour bathing in water tanks on road itself and their laundry lying in open for whole day. No media person is allowed inside the complex, no list of labour with their Aadhar numbers on display, technical expertise of the contractors not known and the fact is MMJHS is not having any technical expert to evaluate on its own. MMJHS has outlived its shell life, very purpose of establishing it has been defeated and instead of taking into confidence all stake holders Heritage Society of Bureaucrats is taking decisions unilaterally in autocratic way.
One can understand sheer hegemony of Kashmir centric rulers who ignored Mubarak Mandi, least interested in its preservation and restoration but the way executives had performed in the past and at present it requires a thorough investigation by CBI, where all the funds have gone with no tangible output. How on one hand one arm of administration is trying it’s best to list the site as “UNESCO Heritage Site’ and on other hand defunct as well as proven liability for Mubarak Mandi this MMJHS has unilaterally advertised EOI for Heritage Hotel inside a ‘Protected Monument’, leave alone permission MMJHS haven’t even informed Archives Department. Why same set of executives are sabotaging Jammu Tourism time and again? Why important departments like Tourism and Archives are with outside UT officers who have no pulse of ground reality? GoI must find out who are the behind the scene players of this whole great destruction plan, in fact who are the officers who are implementing ‘Musharaf Plan’ at Mubarak Mandi also to finish the last standing legacy of Dogra Dynasty.
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