Shamsher Hakla Poonchi
Problems and needs of Gujjars Bakarwals are quite different from other communities of the J&K state. Language and culture of Gujjar Bakarwal community is also different from than those of other communities of this state that is why community has its own peculiar position. Gujjar Bakarwal community is different and as such the community has a distinct identity.
Far from being a dividing line, the well known range of Pir Panchal a Gujjar region is in fact the major linking range of hills and mountains around which the saga of heroic Gujjars and Bakerwals is woven from times immemorial. Strange as it sounds, this watershed has bound together rather than distanced the two climatically and topographically varying regions of the State, viz. Kashmir valley and Jammu Division. In a sense, Pir Panchal is the westward extension of the Siwalak Hills though in their totality, geographers consider it among Himalayan ranges. Here on and around these mountains of the Pir Panchal- many historic events of Kashmir history took place. It was almost a fortified place, a citadel where fleeing kings and princes, rebels and insurgents sought refuge. Here was the kingdom of Queen Dida of Rajatarangini and her faithful Gujjar warriors who were both a support and a threat to the kingdom of Kashmir.The queen was connected by blood to the Shahi rulers of Udhbhanda, the Waihind of ancient Gandhara and modern Kandahar, in Afghanistan. To these foothills came Mahmud of Ghazni in the early years of the eleventh century where Tungauna the commander of Kashmir army faced him but with little success. Here again appeared the troops of Timur during their retreat from Kangra. It were the present Gujjars and Bakerwals of the area whose ancestors saw those great dramas being enacted on the slopes of the mountains on which they lived. They were active participants in these high dramas,fighting,winning,losing yet marching onwards with a vibrant and dynamic life.
On its southern side we have the Districts Poonch and Rajouri including tehsils of Mahore and Gulab Garh of Reasi District and tehsil Gool of Ramban District.Towards its north and north west lies the valley of Kashmir and the Gujjar regions beyond. Between the parallel ranges of these mountains, there are narrow valleys and gorges carrying in their laps streams and nullahs of pure cold water from the snowy peaks of the mountains.Among the high places of the range are Tata Kootian, Neel Kanth, Keeran, Haji Pir Ganga Choti and Atoli Pir. The Pir Panchal carries a number of passes connecting Kashmir valley with the northern and north-western areas of Poonch and Rajouri.The more known passes with which the local people are acquainted are Gali Haji Pir,Dawar Gali,Gajan, Jamian Gali, Noorpur Gali and Pir Gali. Gujjars and Bakerwals are fully acquainted with these passes because they cross and recross them with their herds and flocks to arrive at vast pastures.
There are a number of health resorts along the Pir Panchal towards Poonch district, and if developed properly,these could be of tourist attraction.People from other parts of the country would love spending some time at these picnic spots.Among the more known sites are Ali Abad Sarai, Loren, Moesar, Jabitoti, Bafliaz Poshana, Girjan, Bahram Gala, Neel Kanth, Mandi, Rajpura and Thana Mandi. Likewise,there are attractive health resorts and retreats of great scenic beauty on the other side of the Pir towards Kashmir. These are Jajinar ,Shopian,Hirpur, Yus Marg, Tsrar Sharif, Chaina Marg, Tosh Maidan, Dhaanwas, Gulmarg, Khilanmarg and Bootipathar. There are wooded highlands in whose laps lie attractive grass fields. For the most part of the year, the higher reaches of these mountains remain covered under the Silvery sheet of snow.The tops are snow covered round the year. However, during summer months, snow at lower altitudes melts under the heat of the sun giving rise to streams and nullahs of icy water. On Poonch-Rajouri side , we have a number of roaring stream formed out of the melting snow of Pir. Streams are providing water for irrigation and drinking purposes. Some of the more prominent streams on Poonch-Rajouri side are Buddhal, Betar, Mandi Sawjian, Gagrian and Loren streams and Poonch river. The source of Poonch river is Katori sar.Rising from the lake, its waters flow to Bahram Gala where it forms in the famous waterfall of Noori Chhamb,75 feet in height.Noor Jehan the queen of Jehangir Badshah had,during one of her royal visits to Kashmir, encamped at this spot. Chamb in local terminology means a Waterfall.
There are a number of natural lakes on the surface of the Pir Panchal and these are called Sar in the local dialect.More prominent among these lakes are Nandan Sar, Chandan Sar, Katora Sar Lo Sar Neel Sar and Bhag Sar. These are ancient lakes and have been mentioned in ancient historical works like Nilamata Puran and Rajatrangini, besides Mahatamyas, of the lakes mentioned above, Nandan Sar Is the largest one mile long and half a mile broad.Girjan is the vast and most popular pasture of the Pir in Poonch District. To the west of the Darhal pass,lies the famous and scenic lake Bhag Sar. Bhag Sar, Kokar Sar, Luk Sar and Kal Dachhni, the beautiful lakes also fall within the grand Girjan pasture.
The pastures (bahak in local dialect) of the Pir Panjal a Gujjar region are perhaps the finest and the largest pastures of hilly ranges in the country. These have been the mute witness to Gujjars and their flocks of sheep and herds of cattle moving to and fro for centuries without interruption. These flocks are nurtured by these mountains,on these pastures,beside these lakes and amid these valleys and gorges. Here the Gujjar Bakerwals tend their cattle,graze their sheeps and goats, raise families, live the mobile life, decay and pass away in the lap of nature to their eternal abodes. The most fascinating among these pastures are those of Panjtari and Sari Mastan.One marvels at the scenic beauty of these superbs pastures and meadows of verdant growth and crystalline water,of alpine slopes and transparent lakes and gushing springs. Almost all villages and hamlets skirting the declensions of Pir Panchal are gifted with springs of pure water.On Poonch-Rajouri side, Sari, Lunga Burzi, Noorpur, Baranari, Jamian, Hillkaka and Chandi Marh are the famous enervating pastures of the Pir. The Pir Panchal is breath-taking as one views it from the top of Village Bandi Chechian scanning Poonch city and Rajouri town.Lower reaches of the Pir abound in thick forests of kail, cheel, siar, duar, rear, chikhri, akhoor and branchhar etc. These are all local names.From the heights of Pir Panchal, the entire valley of Kashmir is visible and presents a panoramic view.
The ancient Mughal raod which crossed the Pir Panchal in present day has been completed . Being alternate motorable link between the two divisions of the J&K state, this road will bring about radical change in the economic life of the people particularly of Poonch and Rajouri Districts. At the moment, it has been completed in all respect and has been opened for traffic. Pir Gali links Poonch- Rajouri with Kashmir. The shrine of Hazrat Pir Ahmed Shah, a greatly venerated saint at Pir Gali,perhaps lends the name to the pass.Gujjars Bakerwals who regularly cross and recross the gali or pass, believe that Pir Panchal range also derives its name from the very saint. However, historian and geographers have a different story to state. Be what-ever it is, the history of Jammu and Kashmir is to a great extent the history of Pir Panchal Gujjar Region, its passes, its pastures, its gorges and valley and above all its inhabitants, the Gujjars, Bakerwals and highlanders whose saga of bravery and heroism, sturdiness and gift have made them into a living legend.
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