K.D. Maini
The mention of Pir Panchal Track is available in pre-historic books with different names. Neelmat Purana, Mahabharta and Greek travellers Arayana and Sterbo who accompanied Alxender in 3-26 BC named this region as Panchal Desa. As per Raj Tarangni of Kalhana, this mountainous range was known as Panchal Deva. Kashmindra, the ancient Kashmiri Historian designated this track as Panchal Dharma Matha. After the influence of Islaminthe foot hills of this range, the name was re-designated as Pir Panchal. Legend goes that a Muslim Pir Abdul Karim had meditated at Pir Panchal Pass for a Pretty long Period. As per the British Physician Francis who had accompanied Emperor Shahjahan during his visit to Kashmir in 1644 AD writes that the royal Mughal Karvan met a Muslim Faqir at Pir Pass who was famous for his spiritual deeds. It is possible that this Faqir was Pir Abdul Karim who was buried exactly at Pir Pass after his death by his followers. Presently a Ziarat of Pir Abdul Karim is the only structure available at Pir Pass which is the main attraction for the tourists, travellers, passengers and tribal families who reach Pir Pass from Poonch Rajouri or come from Kashmir valley through Mughal Road. There remains a great hustle bustle around this Ziarat during summer season. The devotees and passengers stop at this place, offer prayers, takes Kehwa (Tea) with Sattu (Baked Maize Flour) from Langer, enjoy the scenic beauty of Pir Panchal and then move towards their destinations.
The mountain ring enclosing Kashmir valley is divided into three main ranges. One of these is designated ‘The Pir Panchal Range’ which forms the boundary of Kashmir valley to the south and south western side. Pir Panchal due to its location is also known as the natural defender of Kashmir because almost all the invaders entered Kashmir through this track. The series of Pir Panchal Range begins from the south of Banihal Pass (9200ft) which is the lowest depression in the chain. Proceeding west from Banihal we come to a group of three snowy peaks on the elevation of 15000ft towards Budhal Town. As per Raj Tringni, In the ancient time these peaks were known as Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh. About 8 mile to the west of these peaks the range is crossed by a pass known as Sidhu Pir 14000ft on the top of Budhal town. From this pass the range changes its direction towards north west and their branches includes Nandan Sar, Darhali Peak, Ropri Pass and Pir Pass 11400ft. The Pir Panchal Pass remains the easiest line of communication from Kashmir towards central part of Punjab and was the shortest possible route between Srinagar to Lahore known as Mughal Route.
Beyond Pir Panchal Pass the summit line again rises considerably then come the next two pass-Chatta Pani and Choti Galiare located between Pir Pass and Tata Kuti, the Highest Top of this series. Range Culminates its greatest snowy peak which rise 15524ft. The whole foothills of Pir Panchal including Mirpur, Kotli Bhinber, Poonch, Rajouri, Bagh and Sudhnuti up to Muzaffarabad are visible from this top.
Ernest F. Nevewrites in his book ‘Beyond the Pir Panchal’ that Pir Panchal range is a serrated edge of rocky arête-joined peaks and snow clad slopes leading towards Kashmir valley. In this range above the height of 6000ft we begin to see occasional pines. A gradual ascent for a few more hundred feet begins the lower margin of the great fir forest. Alongside the slopes of mountain range which bounds the Kashmir in the south and enriches nature blessed beauty of Jammu Province, there is a continuous series of mergs (Meadows) between seven and Nine thousand feet above the sea level. These mergs and Dhoks are stretches of upland flowery meadows and turf occupying the depressions between fir covered slopes and ridges. There is a succession of Dhoks and mergs all along the Pir Panchal Range. One of the most beautiful expeditions is to march along the Mergs camping day after day in exquisitely beautiful spots. Pir Panchal Range has its own season. In mid-winter it is covered by deep pure snow of dazzling whiteness. All the mergs and Dhoks are completely enveloped with snow. In spring melting takes place very rapidly. A few days of warm sunshine clears the trees and mergs start appearing. Simultaneously the tribesman families migrate in these mergs with their cattle and flocks of sheep. These families reside there for six months and enjoy the natural atmosphere of Pir Panchal. In autumn, the old snow is almost melted. The spring flowers are almost gone. In their places we see bushes which are clothed with miles of Juniper bushes above the forest of the slopes in dense dark green patches. On the higher peaks, the last flowers to be seen is owl shaped great Saussure (Jogi Phool) like a globe of white velvet with the size of cricket ball which is the most curious flower and greatly prized by the people who call it the king of medicines.
The northern mountain slopes of Pir Panchal range become a part of Kashmir valley while the southern slopes of this range, its foot hills and plain areas between the river Chenab and the Jhelum is known as Pir Panchal Region of Jammu Province due to its geographical conditions, historic backgrounds, social and cultural aspects this track of fertile land hill terrain attractive valleys, gleans and plain areas is comprised of Budhal, Rajouri, Poonch, Mirpur, Kotli, Sadhroon and goes up to Muzaffarabad. Pir Panchal region is one of the most glamorous track in the state comprised of snow caped peaks like Tata Kuti, Kag Alna, Bhawan, Budhal Peak, important passes like Haji Pir Pass, Nurpur Pass, Pir Panchal, Nandan Sar Pass, etc. Attractive glens like Sawajian, Lowran, Kandi Bakori, Thanamandi. Valleys like Behram Gala Suran Valley, Valley of Seven lakes like Nandan Sar, Chandan Sar, Bhag Sar, Sukh Sar, Nel Sar, stream like Poonch River, Hans River, Sukhtaw, Mahal River. Dhoks like Girjan, Panjtari, Sari Magyana, Tata Kumti Merg, Milky colour water falls like Nuri Chamb, Ratta Chamb and Nandi Choolare are located in this range. Rich wildlife like Markhor, Brownbear, Maskdear, leopard, Goral, etc and birds like pigeon, Chakoor, Snocack, Rock partridge etc and minor forest products including wild fruits roots and dhop are available in the forest area. The track is populated with Pahari, Gujjari, Kashmiri and Dogri Speaking population who are having their unique and distinct cultural heritage, historical background and lifestyle.
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