Rajinder Chand Anthal
04Sudhmahadev is a picturesque valley in the foothills of Dhar Shivgarh in Tehsil Chenani of Jammu province. From ancient times, Sudhmahadev is known as Maha Tirtha of Duggar, connected with the glories of Lord Shiva.
This region is also known as Dev Bhoomi of Duggar, as holy Devika rivulet appears here to wash the sins of mankind. In Sudhmahadev-Mantalai religious pilgrimage circuit, many prominent Shiv Parvati temples are situated with Shri Shool Panishwar Shivji Maharaj temple Sudhmahadev as the epicenter of these “Panjtirthi” group of temples. With deep rooted religious background, Sudhmahadev-Mantalai area is also known as the connecting link between medieval and modern history of the region. Chandel dynasty kings from Chanderi, Bundelkhand, M.P established their kingdom in this area in early ninth century with capital at Mantalai (which was thereafter shifted to Chenani) and ruled till 1947-48. These kings left their footprints in this area as unexplored archeological sites at Mantalai, Garh Barkot and many other forts and palaces in and around Chenani, which can be a source of historical research. With special class Deodar forests, high mountains, holy rivulets, waterfalls and grasslands, Sudhmahadev area has matchless natural beauty for general and adventure tourism etc.
The people of erstwhile Chenani state are known to live their life to the fullest in a joyous atmosphere. The celebration of melas, festivals, kudds and jattars have remained an integral part of the social and cultural life of Chenani. Throughout the year, these events are celebrated with great pomp and show. In the long list of these cultural events, Sudhmahadev mela is one of the oldest, connected with religious paramountcy of Shaivism in this area.
This year Sudhmahadev mela will be held from June 3 to June 5 at various Shiv temples from Gaurikund to Mantalai, but the main “Mahatm” of the pilgrimage lies in holy bath at a sacred place called “Nadda” in the early morning of Purnima.To reach Sudhmahadev, one has to cover a distance of 116 Kilometers from Jammu by bus or private vehicles. The road is in good condition and the vehicle passes through dense forests and valleys.
On the first day of the Mela, the first place to be visited is Gouri Kund, which is Temple of “Goddess Parvati” situated in the coldest hilly belt of Sudhmahadev area. The grand old temple is built near a holy stream where devotees take bath and offer pooja in the temple. It is believed that here Goddess Parvati used to worship to get married with Lord Shiva. After holy bath and pooja at Gouri Kund, the devotees in thousands reach Sudhmahadev in the night and continue reaching without break till morning. The bazars are decorated and some people provide free langer facilities at Gouri Kund, Sudhmahadev and Mantalai. The houses and shops are well decorated and people make good purchases. Govt. Departments establish stalls of their activities during the mela. Thousands of people from Jammu province come for pilgrimage and people from nearby villages of Doda District and Ramnagar Tehsil come in their traditional dresses. While sitting on rooftops of shops, the local people sing dogri classical songs, play music and keep dancing throughout the night, which is a major attraction for the visitors.
Next day early in the morning the people wake up at 4 am and proceed towards the main bathing place called ” NADDA” where holy Devika rivulet appears on the earth in the shape of a waterfall. This is the main place for holy bath at a distance of 2 kilometers from Sudhmahadev. The devotees after the holy bath at “NADDA” come back through Gou Karan on the bank of Devika Stream. After pooja in Gou-Karan temple, people reach Sudhmahadev for morning prayers in SHOOL PANISHWAR LORD SHIVA Temple Sudhmahadev. This temple complex is said to be constructed some one thousand years ago, but it was modified and renovated many times by the Rajas of Chenani to give it its present shape. Adjacent to the temple, there is one excellent ‘Haweli’ of Rajas of Chenani. The Temple has a large number of Samadhis of Nath sadhus. Some of them took live Samadhi during their lifetime.
Another important place in this temple is 1000 years old continuously burning “Dhooni”. It is astonishing to note that although ash is never taken out from the Dhooni, yet the ash level of Dhooni remains the same. The logs of wood keep on burning day and night. Inside the temple complex, there is a beautiful temple of Guru Gorakh Nath Ji and also a black idol of Bharoo Nath ji. It is also worth mentioning that in the treasure of Shiv Temple, there lies one unidentified jewel called “Shiv-Rudri” which is kept open for darshan during the mela days. Inside the temple complex, there is a large trident of Lord Shiva which is buried deep with the upper end visible. Legends say that Lord Shiva had killed “Sudhant” demon with this trident. After main pooja in Lord Shiva Temple, people take bath in nearby “PAPNASHNI BOWLI” which is known to remove the bad effects of sins. At Sudhmahadev, there is another grand old temple of “DEVI MAL” constructed by Raj Gajender Chand of Chenani.
In the afternoon of second day, the pilgrims turn towards Mantalai, which is 8 Kilometers from Sudhmahadev. Mantalai is believed to be the kingdom of Raja Himachal, father of Goddess Parvati. It is believed that at Mantalai, the Marriage of Lord Shiva with Goddess Parvati took place. The Hawan Kund, which was used during the Marriage, has now been converted into a big pond near the old historic temple at Mantalai. The devotees take holy bath and worship in this temple. Mantalai is also known for the “APARNA ASHRAM” of late Swami Dhirendra Brahamchari, who raised multi-million infrastructure in the shape of hostels, hotels, helipad, gardens, yoga research lab, gau-shalas, wide roads, swimming pools and cinema halls etc.. Now the Govt of India has sanctioned the establishment of an International Yoga Centre in the premises of Aparna Ashram, which is nearing completion. The Govt. should repair the remaining infrastructure raised by Late Swami Dhirendra Brahmachari and establish a museum of his belongings for his commemoration.
On the last day of Mela, a big wrestling competition is held at “chowgan” of Sudhmahadev with the participation of reputed wrestlers. Inspite of the tremendous religious and historical importance of this place, the successive state Governments could not raise the required level of infrastructure for the yatris at Sudhmahadev and Mantalai. Traffic jams during the mela days are frequent and devotees suffer for hours on roads in heat. Moreover, no publicity is being done through electronic and print media by Tourism and information Departments to bring this place on the tourism map of India. Also, the archaeological sites at Mantalai and Sudhmahadev need proper attention for research and preservation.
This Mela provides an opportunity to the devotees to be a part of this great cultural and religious event. It is believed that Lord Shiva showers his blessings on the pilgrims for prosperity and well being of mankind.
(The author is retired Zonal Education Officer, Chenani)
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