Dr. Ankush Mahajan, Nisha Mahajan
“Tradition is not the worship of ashes, but the preservation of fire.” – Gustav Mahler
The Dogra community, known for its rich cultural heritage, has always stood out for its unique blend of traditions, beliefs, folklore, dances, and customs. A significant and vibrant part of this heritage lies in the traditional attire of the Dogras, which reflects their history, environment, and way of life. While the modern world has brought changes, the legacy of Dogra attire still holds a special place in the hearts of its people.
The Practical and Aesthetic Charm of Dogra Attire
Dogra attire has always been a harmonious blend of functionality and elegance, designed to suit the region’s climatic conditions and the community’s hardworking lifestyle. Traditionally, Dogra men and women adapted their clothing to the changing seasons and their daily activities.
For Men:
Dogra men, known for their resilience and labor-intensive professions like farming and cattle-rearing, wore loose pyjamas bound with cords during fieldwork. These pyjamas, sometimes tighter at the top, allowed ease of movement and durability. For social gatherings, fairs, or meetings, they dressed more elaborately, donning long kurtas with ghuttanas-a traditional pyjama style loose at the top and tight at the ankles, with pleats for a distinguished look. The attire was completed with a starched turban called safa, symbolizing pride and socio-religious significance.
During weddings and formal occasions, Dogra men showcased regal charm with embroidered achkans and churidar pyjamas, often paired with leather jutti and a ceremonial sword, reminiscent of warriors from a bygone era.
For Women:
Dogra women equally embraced both functionality and grace in their clothing. At home, they often wore practical giddis or petticoats while cooking and tending to household chores. Outside, they opted for long kurtas paired with suthans, loose at the top and snug at the ankles, adorned with intricate pleats. On festive occasions and weddings, these suthans were elaborately decorated with colorful patterns and embroidery, often paired with beautifully crafted odnis.
Winter Wear: A Battle Against the Cold
In the harsh winters of the Duggar region, Dogras relied on their resourcefulness and local materials to create warm clothing. Woolen coats or baskats were handwoven and hand-sewn, providing much-needed protection against the cold. Mountain dwellers carried skillfully crafted woolen blankets, while wealthier individuals preferred luxurious pashmina shawls, renowned for their fine craftsmanship and elegance.
The Role of Handicrafts and Weavers
The exquisite craftsmanship of Dogra attire owes much to the skilled weavers and artisans who played a pivotal role in creating these traditional garments. Local weavers, often working on handlooms, crafted fine woolen coats, shawls, and blankets that not only provided warmth but also showcased intricate designs and vibrant colors. Artisans specialized in embroidering festive suthans, odnis, and achkans, using techniques passed down through generations. These handicrafts, deeply rooted in Dogra culture, were a source of pride for the community and a livelihood for many families. Supporting these artisans today is crucial to reviving the heritage and sustaining the local economy.
A Cultural Shift: The Disappearance of Tradition
With modernization and changing economic conditions, traditional Dogra attire has seen a decline. Western outfits like jeans, T-shirts, blazers, and track suits have replaced the classic ghuttanas and suthans. The safa, once a symbol of pride, is now reserved for rare occasions like weddings, where elders are often called to assist in tying it.
Women too have embraced modern styles, with salwar kameez giving way to jeans and tops. Colorful odnis and intricately designed festive suthans have become almost extinct, now surviving mostly in folk songs like “Odni Rangi De Lalaria.”
The Importance of Preservation
The fading presence of traditional Dogra attire raises concerns about the preservation of this rich cultural heritage. Efforts must be made to revive and celebrate these unique styles to ensure they are not lost to time.
What Can Be Done?
Cultural Exhibitions: Organize exhibitions showcasing traditional Dogra attire, jewelry, and artifacts used by kings, leaders, and other prominent figures.
Festive Celebrations: Promote Dogra clothing and jewelry during festivals, weddings, and other cultural events like Mundans or Sutras.
Educational Initiatives: Include traditional Dogra attire in school and college fancy dress competitions and cultural programs to educate the younger generation.
Support for Artisans: Provide financial and institutional support to weavers and artisans to preserve the skills needed to craft traditional Dogra attire.
Media Representation: Use media platforms to highlight the beauty and history of Dogra fashion through documentaries, articles, and social media campaigns.
Showcasing Dogra Heritage: Dr. Ankur Sharma’s Global Triumph
Dr. Ankur Sharma’s journey to the Mrs. India 2024 stage has become a beacon of pride for Jammu and Kashmir, as she beautifully represented the rich Dogra culture on an international platform. Draped in a stunning bridal dress adorned with intricate peacock embroidery, crafted by skilled artisans of Jammu, Dr. Ankur captivated the audience with a seamless blend of tradition and modernity. The double-sided photograph she held, depicting Mata Vaishno Devi on one side and the sacred Amarnath shrine on the other, added a divine aura to her presence, symbolizing the spiritual essence of her homeland. Her attire and presentation not only won hearts but also shown a spotlight on the extraordinary talent of local weavers and craftsmen. By showcasing the vibrant Dogra culture, she enchanted the global stage and highlighted the timeless beauty of Jammu’s heritage. This powerful representation is expected to boost the morale and visibility of the state’s artisans, paving the way for greater recognition of their unmatched skills. The world stood mesmerized by the splendor of Dogra artistry, proving that Jammu’s cultural legacy holds an enchanting allure for people far and wide.
A Call to Action
The Dogra attire is not just a collection of garments but a testament to the community’s identity, values, and creativity. By embracing and promoting these traditional styles, the Dogra community can ensure that this vibrant cultural heritage is preserved for future generations. After all, if the Dogras themselves do not take pride in their culture, who else will step forward to protect it?
Through a collective effort, the colorful and intricate threads of Dogra tradition can continue to weave stories of pride and heritage for centuries to come.
“A people without the knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots.” – Marcus Garvey
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