The Vanishing Heritage

Ashok Sharma
‘Baolis’ or ‘Baans’ as they are called in the local parlance are an integral part of our culture heritage. Spread across almost in every village of the Jammu region, they are traditional architectural marvels. These baolis are the stepwells or water reservoirs which were historically used for water storage and conservation when there were very few sources of drinking water in the villages. These Baolis are an integral part of rich Dogra cultural and architectural heritage, bequeathed to us by our forefathers. The Baolis reflect the ancient methods of water conservation, as well as the architectural craftsmanship of the time they were built in. Many of these baolis date back to medieval and even ancient periods and are scattered across the plains and hilly areas of Jammu region. These Baolis were primarily built by wealthy & philanthropic persons or the members of the royal families for the public or for the travellers along the paths frequented by them.
Baolis, as we find them even today, also cater to the water requirements of the cattle and serve as hubs of a village. Generally a shady tree, usually of Banyan or Peepal is planted near the baoli to provide shade for the people to rest and for other religious purposes. Wide at the top and narrowing towards the base, the water in Baolis is generally hot in winter and cold in summer. In some cases, it has the miraculous property of curing skin diseases and other ailments. Unlike the Baolis in the plains, the Baolis built in the Pahari style, are simpler & often lack intricate carvings and other ornamentation and called ‘Naun’. These Baolis are generally found in hilly regions, especially in Doda and Kishtwar Districts. These natural sources are subdivided into ‘Naag’ and those whose water is made to fall through a pipe, are called ‘Naadu’. According to Dr. Lalit Gupta, stepwells are believed to have been constructed in Jammu region during 18th- 20-th century.
Most of the Baolis in the Jammu region have been typically designed with descending steps leading to a central water reservoir. They are usually rectangular or square in shape and often made of limestone and limestone. Some Baolis have intricate stone carvings of local deities folk heroes, gods and goddesses, birds, animals, besides arches, domes and calligraphic inscriptions while others are simpler built only for the storage of water. The number of steps and the depth of the Baolis often depends on the topography and the water table of the area. In the past, they served as an excellent system for water harvesting, conservation and effective management.
The primary purpose of these baolis, in olden days, was rainwater harvesting and provision of regular supply of water for drinking, bathing and irrigation, especially during the dry summer months when requirement of water is much more as compared to other months. They also serve as social and cultural Hubs for the local community. Baolis often used to be the places where people from the local communities gathered for bathing and shared their thoughts, woes and issues after day’s hard work. They also served as rest stops for travellers & the Royal entourage who would travel for miles in absence of transport facilities in the days of the yore. Some Baolis were built near temples and mosques, adding a religious significance to them and to enable people to do ablutions before offering prayers.
Often Yagnas and religious activities & sometimes fairs are organised near Baolis, in which a large number of people participate and strong social bonds are formed. Religious rituals such as Kriya/ 10th Day etc of the deceased Hindus are often performed in the villages near the Baolis as sufficient water is available for bathing and rituals. As crops ripen, the first produce of grains, pulses etc is also offered to Deities often at the Baolis by the women in the rituals called Pattarpuja/ Kharkas. The Baolis of the Jammu region were mostly built during the reign of the Dogra rulers and other kings who ruled the area. However, some Baolis are even older, dating back to ancient times when the region was part of larger northern Indian kingdoms. Baolis, as transmitters of our culture, display our folk art. Every idol and stone tell a lot of our sculpture in the days of yore. The idols showing carvings of birds/ animals, dress items, arms and queens in palanquins or warriors preparing for a battle, tell much more than books can do, of the times they were built. The idols of Gods and Goddesses and Folk deities give valuable clue about the religious practices and beliefs followed by the people.
Prominent Baolis in Duggar: Besides a number of ponds & wells, there are hundreds of Baolis across Duggar, some of which are still used for the purpose of drinking water, bathing and other purposes. But some of them are more famous than the others because of their unique craftsmanship, religious importance, quantity of water or legends associated with them. Such Baolis can be found in every district of Jammu region. According to eminent writer Shiv Nirmohi (Duggar Ki Baolian by Shiv Nirmohi), the land of Duggar is blessed to have a large number of Baolis. Some of the important Baolis in Jammu District, (most of which are cylinderical in shape) include Bain Bajalta Baoli which is believed to have been built by Wazir Ram Das during the the rule of Maharaja Ranbir Singh in the Rajasthani style, this magnificent Baoli has 19 steps. Nagrota Baoli was built by Maharaja Pratap Singh.
Among the other prominent Baolis in Jammu District are Jagti Baoli also called ‘Bola Nag Di Baoli’ is said to have been constructed during the period of Nags, Pangali Baoli near Jagti which has many steps to reach main reservoir of water is 8 m down the surface, Jindrah Baolis which are three circular Baolis having religious importance),Urlian Baoli which is 35 by 8 ft & has 17 steps to descend. Major Baolis in Udhampur District include Baddi Baan or Sangoor Baoli which is spread over 20 sq mts having 26 idols, Saakan Baoli near Railway Station, Udhampur, which had around 70 idols but now only 20 are visible, Billan Baoli which has around 300-year old idol of Bhagwan Vishnu, Salaan Baoli measuring around 9 by 9 m, it has 52 idols, Chiryai Baolis, which is a cluster of 04 Baolis said to have been constructed by artisans from Rajasthan during the rule of Raja Ghagga Singh in the 17th century. The iconic Chirayi Baolis have 144 idols in total.Then we have group of Baolis at Mela Bag, one of which was constructed in 1866,Rani Di Baoli at Salmerhi, which is 8 by 8 m and was constructed by Rani Bhutyali who was Maharaja Hari Singh’ s mother, Pap Nashni Baoli at Sudhmahadev (6 by 6 m),it has 12 idols, Falata Baoli which is believed to have been constructed by Rani Charki’s maid servant Prem Dasi in 1924,it has 24 idols, Bartang Baoli which is said to have been constructed by Rani Rakwali.Besides,other famous Baolis in Udhampur District include Panchankh Baolis at Thial (05 Baolis)Devika Baolis, Jaganoo Baolis, Sansoo Baoli, Khatriari Baoli, Londana Baoli, Jib Baolis etc.
These baolis have intricate carvings and wonderful idols. Prominent Baolis in Kathua District, many of which are in the Pahari style can be found at Ramkot which is spread over7 sq.m, Sukrala Baoli having square shape & has 12 idols. Other prominent Baolis in Kathua District include Bhaddu Baolis , Dubbey di Baolis, Baarein di Baoli, Mahanpur, Pargane wali Baoli, Bhatton Di Baoli, Kharatni wali Baoli, Mandli Baoli etc whereas important Baolis in Samba District include Babhruvahan Baoli which is rectangular in shape having ancient idols and islocated on a small plateau,Sujana Baolis having a cluster of 05 Baolis, Rajpura Baoli which was built by Maharaja Pratap Singh,Bari Khud Baoli which is built in the Rajasthani style during the rule of Maharaja Ranbir Singh and has 26 steps. In Reasi District, Baolis known for their craftsmanship/ size/ quantity of water/ historicity are Hansali Baolis – a group of 05 Baolis having superb architecture, Chamba Baolis – a cluster of three Baolis, Karkyal Baoli having Puranic & local deities, Soola Baoli which is believed to be of Nag period, Salal Baolis which are around 12 Baolis in Salal regionetc.
Most of the Baolis in Reasi District have Pahari Style of construction.In Ramban-Doda- Kishtwar region, major Baolis are located at Rajgarh Baoli which is called ‘Naun’ in local parlance and has big slabs of stones, Kastigarh Baoli which is one of the famous Baolis of Siraj region, Arsi Baolis in Kishtwar), Tatta Pani Baoli, Pandav Baoli in Bhaderwah, Kesar Nag, Gallu Nag, Bhautar Nag and Bainsar Nag etc. The architecture of these Baolis seems to be influenced by the Nag Culture.Main Baolis in Rajouri- Poonch area include those at Sundervani,Koyaan Baolis which is a group of 03 Baolis in Kalakot, Barnoti Baolis in Rajouri, Laah waali Baoli which is believed to be of Nag period, Suthraan Waali Baoli in Poonch which is a famous site for cultural & religious programmes etc. These baolis are known for their historical and cultural significance.
The Baolis of Jammu region not only stand as historical monuments but also as a reminder of the sustainable water management practices that once thrived in this region. They are testament to the archeological and engineering skills of the times in which they were constructed. But unfortunately, many Baolis in the Jammu region are now lying in a state of neglect & disrepair. Many of them have dried up or fallen into disuse due to changing water systems and modern water supply methods.There used to be times when these Baolis were periodically cleaned by the local youth but as a result of fast life and supply of water through pipes at doorsteps, these Baolis have fallen into disuse and many a time as a place for dumping waste/ litter. But it must be remembered that some of them them have great historical importance owing to historicity or legends associated with them or unique architectural design and are a part of our rich cultural heritage.
These Baolis have withstood the rigours of weather and time for hundreds of years. They are not merely the source of water but also the repository of our rich cultural heritage. Therefore, there is dire need to conserve and preserve them to retain their architectural beauty and cultural identity for transmission to the coming generations. The Government has initiated steps for restoration of Chirayi Baolis and may be for some others, too. But it is the bounden duty of one and all steps to make efforts to save this priceless heritage from decay and extinction. The PRI institutions, heritage conservation groups and local communities should be actively involved for restoration of the pristine glory of these Baolis do that this priceless heritage is preserved and transmitted to the future generations to behold and appreciate.
(The writer is Sr.Lecturer, SED( Retd.), Govt. of J& K)