Rahul Dogra
In the heart of Jammu, where history and spirituality intertwine, lies the iconic Bahu Fort, an ancient edifice that stands as a testament to the region’s rich heritage. Nestled within its fortified walls is the revered Mahakali Temple, also known as the Bawe Wali Mata Temple, a sacred abode of Matarani that draws countless devotees and visitors alike.
Each year, during the auspicious Navratras, the Bahu Fort Mela transforms this historic precinct into a vibrant celebration, where tradition and festivity converge in a captivating spectacle. The people wait for hours to have Darshans of their loved Bawe Wali Mata. Devotees are commonly seen praying in the temple courtyard in deep meditation chanting “Jaikaara Maa Bawe Wale Mata Da , Bolo Sache Darbar Ki Jai”.
The Bahu Fort Mela is an exhilarating celebration that transcends mere festivities, encapsulating the very essence of Jammu’s cultural identity. As the sun rises over the Suryaputri Tawi River, the air is filled with the melodious chanting of hymns and the aroma of incense, inviting devotees to partake in this sacred gathering. The fort’s ancient walls, which have witnessed the passage of centuries, come alive with the fervent devotion of those seeking the blessings of the divine Goddess Mahakali. Within the temple’s sanctum sanctorum, an elevated platform houses a mesmerizing black stone Pindi, the revered manifestation of the Goddess Mahakali herself. Adorned in exquisite Dogra jewellery -the nath , Manng tikka , nama set and traditional garments, the sacred idol bears a distinct local imprint that resonates deeply with the Dogra community. The Goddess is a reflection of the region’s cultural heritage, embodying the essence of the land and its people. It is a profound connection that transcends mere symbolism, as the Dogras regard her as their very own reigning Goddess.
The Mela’s Significance and Rituals
The Bahu Fort Mela holds immense significance for the people of Jammu, as it is inextricably linked to the veneration of the Goddess Mahakali, the presiding deity of the region. According to ancient lore, the temple and the fort were constructed by the legendary Raja Bahulochan over 3,000 years ago, showcasing the deep-rooted connection between the sacred site and the local populace. One of the most captivating rituals observed during the Mela is the symbolic animal sacrifice, a practice that has undergone a profound transformation over time. In the past, animals were sacrificed as offerings to the Goddess, but today, this ritual has evolved to a more symbolic form. Devotees purchase a goat and bring it to a designated pit outside the temple, where a priest performs sacred rites and sprinkles holy water on the animal.
If the goat shudders upon receiving the water, it is believed that the Goddess has accepted the offering, and the animal is then released, unharmed. This symbolic ritual, known as “Shilly Charana,” is a testament to the evolving nature of traditions, where ancient practices are adapted to align with contemporary values while still preserving their spiritual essence. It is a beautiful fusion of the past and present, ensuring that the sacred bond between the people and the divine remains intact. Amidst the revelry, the Bahu Fort Mela also pays homage to the region’s rich cultural heritage. Traditional folk songs, known as “Karkan,” echo through the fair, celebrating the Goddess, the surrounding environment, and the fragrant jasmine flowers that once adorned the temple premises. These melodious odes serve as a poignant reminder of the deep-rooted connection between the land, its people, and their spiritual beliefs.
Historical Significance and Legends
The Dogras have forged an unbreakable bond with their beloved Bawe Wali Mata, the presiding deity of the region. This sacred connection is deeply rooted in the annals of history and intricately woven into the fabric of their traditions and beliefs. For generations, the Dogras have sought solace, guidance, and divine blessings from the benevolent Goddess, cultivating a reverence that has withstood the test of time.
Goddess Mahakali’s presence at Bahu Fort goes back to ancient times. Though the exact construction date of the fort and its historic Mahakali temple cannot be stated with certainty, it is widely believed that King Bahu Lochan built the fort around 3000 years ago. Bahu Lochan and his brother Jambu Lochan (after whom Jammu city is named) were two of eighteen sons of King Agnigarbha from the Suryavanshi dynasty of Ayodhya. These descendants of Lord Rama’s son Kush had migrated to the village of Parolnowan in Jammu’s Kathua district, as per historian Suraj Saraf. From there, the clan spread, and Bahu Lochan conquered the territory near Bahu Rakh. Legend has it that Jambu Lochan decided to make Jammu his capital after seeing a tiger and goat drinking together from the Tawi river.
When the invader Amir Timur attacked Jammu in the 14th century AD, the Bahu Fort and temple already existed, mentioned in his autobiography Malfuzat-i-Timuri. Historical accounts reveal the 300-year-old fort first underwent renovation by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1820, a tradition continued by Dogra rulers like Maharaja Gulab Singh, Ranbir Singh, Pratap Singh, and Hari Singh from 1846 to 1947.
Architectural Marvels and Modern Additions
The Bahu Fort itself is an architectural marvel, a testament to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of its ancient builders. The octagonal fort, constructed with thick walls and towering turrets, stands as a formidable structure, its imposing presence commanding respect and awe. Within its confines, visitors can explore a labyrinth of halls, chambers, and secret passages, each with its own story to tell. One of the fort’s most intriguing features is the presence of several ponds, each serving a distinct purpose during the era of its glory. One pond was reserved for the royal family, another for the king’s army, and a third for the general populace, showcasing the meticulous planning and organization that went into the fort’s design.
As time passed by, the Bahu Fort Mela has embraced modernity while preserving its traditional roots. The adjacent Bagh-e-Bahu park, a lush oasis of tranquility, has been adorned with a mesmerizing musical fountain, adding a contemporary touch to the age-old celebration. A newly constructed aquarium is also an added tourist attraction. Visitors can revel in the harmonious blend of nature’s beauty and modern artistry, creating an enchanting experience that transcends temporal boundaries. Furthermore, the fair has become a hub of cultural exchange, attracting visitors from far and wide, including pilgrims returning from the revered Vaishno Devi shrine. This convergence of diverse cultures and beliefs serves as a testament to the universal appeal of the Bahu Fort Mela, fostering a sense of unity and camaraderie among all who partake in its splendor.
As the sun sets over the ancient fort, the Mela takes on a different hue, with the soft glow of diyas and twinkling lights illuminating the pathways. Families gather, children revel in the festivities, and the air is filled with the sound of laughter and joy. It is a celebration that transcends the boundaries of age and creed, uniting all in the embrace of the divine and the timeless traditions that have been passed down through generations. The Bahu Fort Mela is more than just a festival; it is a tapestry woven from the threads of history, spirituality, and cultural identity. As visitors immerse themselves in its vibrant celebration, they embark on a journey that unveils the essence of Jammu, a region where the past and present converge in a harmonious dance, paying homage to the divine while embracing the ever-evolving traditions that shape its rich cultural landscape.
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