Prof Suresh Chander
I am Tilla Jogian, a place of desolation, yet my history whispers tales of a vibrant past. Once a thriving hub of spiritual seekers, my peaks now lie shrouded in silence.
Origins and Legends
The origins of Tilla Jogian are wrapped in myth and legend. According to a centuries-old tale, the mound was formed from the rain caused by Rajdevi’s voice, growing from the sea into a holy site where Prajapati, Brahma, and ultimately Lord Shiva emerged. The great yogi Gorakhnath, a disciple of Shiva, was given the task of guarding Tilla Jogian, and from him, the sacred thread of spiritual lineage began. Gorakhnath’s teachings gave rise to twelve Nath sects of ascetics, establishing Tilla Jogian as a revered seat of spiritual learning and yogic practice.
The Spiritual Legacy of Gorakhnath and His Followers
Gorakhnath, a revered yogi, roamed my peaks, establishing the first monastery of Kanphata Jogis. I am a tapestry of faiths, blessed by Sun Priests, Hindus, Buddhists, Jains, Sikhs, and Muslims. The Aryans, who arrived in India 4000 years ago, chose me as their sacred mound. My caves and temples bear witness to the sun priests who sat in contemplation.
Under Gorakhnath, Tilla Jogian became a sanctuary for ascetics who renounced worldly life in pursuit of spiritual enlightenment. It was here that countless sadhus and jogis practised meditation, yoga, and astrology. They perfected the ancient art of Ayurveda, concocting healing herbs found in remote forests to cure the sick. Tilla Jogian was not only a physical place of retreat but also a centre of knowledge, from which the secrets of the universe were measured and understood through the movement of the sun and stars.
Ranjha, the lovelorn protagonist of Heer found solace in my lap, as did Raja Bhartrihari, a philosopher- king who sought refuge in my embrace. The tales of Puran Bhagat, and Raja Risalu, disciples of Gorakhnath, further intertwine the site with stories of renunciation and spiritual transformation. I saw the arrival of the Aryans in India, and my peaks were once home to hundreds of jogis. My temples, samadhis, ponds, and trees have great names of history attached to them.
Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism, meditated at Tilla Jogian for 40 days in the early 1500s, seeking to understand and debate with the Jogis about their beliefs, drawn by the site’s significance as a Hindu pilgrimage centre.
A Sacred Hill for Kings and Emperors
Tilla Jogian has long attracted not only ascetics but also rulers, who sought divine favour or spiritual guidance. Legends say that as early as the time of Raja Porus and Alexander the Great, Tilla Jogian was recognized as a holy site. It was here that Porus’s elephant, imbued with supernatural powers, warned him against battling Alexander. This earned Tilla Jogian the title “Elephant Hill,” a name that reflects its distant view of resembling a seated elephant.
The Mughal emperor Akbar is said to have visited Tilla Jogian barefoot, seeking blessings from the assembled sadhus. He improved the infrastructure to serve the needs of the pilgrims. Akbar’s son Jahangir also made his way to Tilla Jogian. Maharaja Ranjit Singh in the late 19th century commemorated the visit of Guru Nanak with a small monument to mark the exact spot at which Guru Nanak is said to have meditated.
Bhartrihari
In the ancient city of Ujjain, King Bhartrihari, a philosopher-king known for his wisdom and poetry, ruled a court of scholars and artists. He had two queens, Sita, his first wife who shared his love for philosophy, and Pingla Devi, his second wife, known for her beauty and kindness. However, Sita’s infidelity devastated him, leading him to unjustly test Pingla Devi’s loyalty. Upon hearing false news of his death, Pingla Devi, stricken with grief, passed away. Overcome with guilt, Bhartrihari abdicated in favour of his brother Vikramaditya and retreated to Tilla Jogian, where he became a Jogi and dedicated himself to spiritual reflection, with his poetry turning introspective.
Puran Bhagat
Puran di Khui near Sialkot. Even today, people visit the well to seek Puran’s blessings for a child, reflecting the enduring legacy of his story and the well’s significance as a site of spiritual reverence.
Puran, the son of Queen Ichhira and Raja Shalivahan, was sent away from the kingdom for 12 years based on astrologers’ advice. During this time, the King married Luna. When Puran returned, Luna became infatuated with him. However, Puran rejected her advances due to their familial relationship. Feeling spurned, Luna falsely accused Puran of dishonouring her. As a result, Puran was brutally punished: his hands and legs were amputated, and he was left to die in a forest well. Miraculously, Guru Gorakhnath found Puran’s voice from the well and rescued him using a single thread and an earthen pot. The guru adopted Puran who is said to have been treated at Tilla Jogian.
Ranjha’s Pilgrimage
Ranjha, the heartbroken hero of Waris Shah’s poetry, fled to Tilla Jogian after losing Heer. He sought refuge with Guru Balnath and renounced the world, becoming a Kanphata Jogi with pierced ears. However, his love for Heer remained, and he left Tilla Jogian to search for her again, even as a spiritual seeker.
Decline and Desolation
Tilla Jogian’s decline began in the later years of the Mughal Empire, though it survived under various rulers, including Maharaja Ranjit Singh of the Sikh Empire. However, its fate was sealed after the partition of India in 1947. The Jogis, who had kept the traditions alive for millennia, found themselves scattered by the religious divide. The temples, monasteries, and samadhis fell into disuse, and what was once a thriving centre of ascetic life became a forgotten ruin.
The structures that remain today are a testament to the deep history etched into the hill. Beneath the surface of Tilla Jogian lie ancient temples and forgotten buildings, their decayed walls and hidden staircases silently holding the secrets of an era long gone. The pond, once filled with water, now stands dry, a symbol of the lost vitality of this once-great site.
Tilla Jogian’s Enduring Significance
Though it may appear abandoned, Tilla Jogian still holds an almost mystical significance. Its history stretches back over three thousand years, connecting the past with the present in ways that are both profound and tragic. For the ascetics who once inhabited its caves, Tilla Jogian was more than a geographic location – it was a gateway to higher knowledge, a place where time and space could be transcended through meditation, ritual, and the pursuit of spiritual enlightenment.
The site’s association with multiple faiths – Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, Sikhism, and even Islam – highlights its universal appeal. Tilla Jogian is a reminder of the interconnectedness of different traditions, a place where religious boundaries dissolved in the face of a shared quest for meaning.
Tilla Jogian at present
Tilla Jogian, now a shadow of its former self, stands quietly, its peaks echoing with stories of the past. Legends of Gorakhnath, Ranjha’s tragic love, imperial patronage, and yogis’ devotion linger on. This sacred place, where spiritual seekers and pilgrims found solace, remains wrapped in time and memory, awaiting the day when its splendour will be rekindled.
Acknowledgment
Syed Zulfiqar Gilani’s logs for the rich history of Tilla Jogian and nearby areas, illuminating their significance.
(The author is former Head of Computer Engineering Department in G B Pant University of Agriculture & Technology)
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