Col Satish Singh Lalotra
‘You are not in the mountains. The mountains are in you. -John Muir.
The unending tapestry of scenic beauties, breathtaking views, and enchanting locales left by the Himalayas finds no equal as found in the erstwhile state of Jammu and Kashmir. Though J&K has been for times immemorial known for its tourist attractions the world over, it is the lesser known locales within the boundaries of this UT which forms as its backbone in beckoning the tourist to yet another round of fun, frolics and exploration that may have been given a miss inadvertently by him in pursuit of much more advertised locales. ‘Tosamaidan’ is one such enchanting place that lies snuggled within the ‘Sukhnag’ range of the Pir Panjal mountains and yet not much on the radars of avid tourists and travellers. The place stands as a lofty plateau gracing the Budgam district of Jammu and Kashmir. Perched at an elevation of about 10,500 feet above the MSL, this expanse resides approximately 50 kms away from the urban embrace of Srinagar city. Enveloped by an ethereal allure, Tosamaidan’s grandeur showcases the most expansive pastures, adorned with a snowy mantle from November through April.
I have had the opportunity to explore this high altitude plateau cum meadow way back in the year July 2003 as also as late as August 2008 while posted at Gurez valley and coming all the way from Pune as part of an official assignment from DGQA respectively. Little about that later. Encompassing primarily 4 prominent meadows-Gujjerbahak, Guttermarg ,Chinamarg and Badshahmarg; Tosamaidan’s appellation ,Tosa carries an interesting labyrinthine of stories that will leave an avid reader glued to the last of its details. One legend traces its genesis to ‘Mehmud Ghazni ‘ ,who purportedly exclaimed ‘tushahemaidan’ signifying ‘you are the king of meadows. This phrase evolved into a poetic saga etching forever into the mental firmament of the masses as something that finds no equal in meadows. In antiquity ,Tosamaidan stood as a haven for the shepherds from neighbouring lands ,a testament to its historical significance in the tapestry of Kashmir. Down the memory lane , Tosamaidan remains a cherished route historically linking it both with Kashmir valley and the vast swathes of western Punjab nestled between the meandering Jhelum and Indus rivers as documented by MA Stein in 1899.
This expanse also served as a pivotal thoroughfare during the eras of Mughal opulence, the reign of the ‘Lohara dynasty’ and the ascendency of the Sikh domain. ‘Al-Beruni’s annals reflect vibrant trade along this very route painting a vivid portrait of commercial exchanges. The Mughal legacy further glistens upon Tosamaidan’s canvas ,with their architectural opulence manifested in multi-storey marvels at Dumdum and Drang. Huddled amidst the embrace of dense forests, predominantly adorned with towering fir,pine and deodar trees alongside the majestic spectacle of snowcapped peaks and meandering rivers and streams ,these meadows appear to have been descended straight from the heavens. A multitude of streams originating from proximate peaks or adjacent meadows, converge into the gentle flow of the ‘Sukhnag ‘river. This lifeline sustains tens of thousands of locals across the three downstream districts nurturing their existence. In harmony with this vibrant ecosystem, a plethora of pastoral and agricultural communities including the nomadic tribes of Gujjars, Bakerwals, Pohls,Paharis and kashmiris draw sustenance and livelihood from these verdant meadows. During the summers hundreds of families accompanied by a multitude of livestock, embark on a seasonal migration to this hallowed land, dwelling here for approximately 4 to 5 months before retracing their paths to their lowland villages. The charming villages at the foothills of Tosamaidan such as Sutharan, Drang, Lassipora, Ringzbal Shunglipora, Chill-Bass, Zoogu, Kharien and more provide a glimpse into the rustic tapestry of Kashmiri life of rural areas. It was during my short sojourn in August 2009 to Tosamaidan that I undertook my journey starting from the base of this vast plateau from Sutharan village after crossing the fast flowing stream over a bailey bridge.
Tosamaidan and its surroundings have a lot more punch packed in themselves as far as flora and fauna is concerned. These meadows come alive with a vibrant palette of wildflowers, including delicate irises and cheerful buttercups. The fauna encompass a multitude of resplendent Koklass pheasant, the elusive snow partridge, foxes, hares and such like. As if this is not enough a tapestry of 95 bird species including the Kashmir flycatcher, the majestic Himalayan snow cock ,the illustrious Impeyan Monal , alongside a fluttering array of 31 butterfly species adorn this vast expanse . In so far as mammals are concerned the area boasts of regal Himalayan brown bear, Asiatic black bear, enigmatic leopard, graceful musk dear, spirited barking dear, contemplative Kashmir grey languor, elusive snow leopard, formidable Tibetan wolf, cunning red fox, agile leopard cat, charming yellow throated marten, majestic Himalayan Goral ,illustrious markhor, enchanting chakoor to name a few.
Tosamaidan has got lot of tourism potential packed into itself. These regions hold within themselves a host of possibilities ranging from invigorating treks, exhilarating water sports, captivating snow based activities and daring mountaineering expeditions, to immersive wildlife and bird watching escapades. This new paradigm of tourism has been deftly integrated into fostering a robust sense of community involvement, ensure fair distribution of benefits, and champion the propagation of conservation consciousness. In this endeavor, local communities are not merely spectators; they actively partake in the promotion and instruction of adventure sports within the meadows. Many of them are engaged in the nurturing of rural tourism, breathing life into traditional arts and crafts ,ushering in innovative products ,elevating hygiene and fundamental sanitation standards ,bolstering formal education ,fostering skill development and fortifying training and capacity enhancement.
When I was tasked to come to Tosamaidan from Gurez while still in service, it was part of a training schedule in July 2003 where these meadows used to reverberate with sounds of artillery and mortar bombs as part of army field firing ranges. Having camped there for a considerable time period I had lot of time on my hands in between my busy schedule to partake in short sight-seeing trips as well as interaction with the locals who were quite amiable in their approach to the army, disturbed conditions notwithstanding. Tosamaidan can be accessed by cab or scenic trekking routes from nearby foothill villages. From Srinagar airport ,travellers can take the Srinagar airport -Sukhnag road via Zoogu- Arizalto -Sethaharan and onwards to Tosamaidan. Routes from Srinagar itself include travelling through Magam-Khagor-Beerwah -Arizal to Sethaharan before reaching Tosamaidan. Another option is to take the Beerwah college road through Setaharan.
For those trekking seekers, there are plenty of routes too for choosing. One can take the trekking route from villages like Ringzbal-Kadlabal-Shunglipora-Drung-Waganpathri-Dumdum trail ending at Tosamaidan. As far as summer season is concerned, Tosamaidan offers a wide range of adventure and cultural experiences for visitors to immerse themselves in. The lakes and rivers provide opportunities for boating, rafting and trout fishing in the icy waters. Photographic and camp enthusiasts can have their heart’s fill by indulging in their favourite hobby. From November to March, Tosamaidan transforms into a wintry paradise perfect for snow sports and adventures. The slopes of Tosamaidn are an ideal locale for world class skiing and skating. In August 2008 when I came last time over here, from Pune on an official assignment I was accompanied by a civilian official too from the Ordnance factory who had great difficulty in climbing the steep slopes of Tosamaidan and had to be literally pepped up by me to keep moving up to reach our destination perched up art about 10,500 feet. Since our sojourn was only for two days it was a touch and go affair with this high altitude plateau. Notwithstanding the above, howsoever short your stay at Tosamaidan may be it still packs a lot in pepping your spirits up with its various USPs in its very being. No wonder John Muir had very aptly said—‘You are not in the mountains; mountains are in you.
(The writer is a retired army officer)
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